Cielos in White Rock

So last night we met up with our dear friends at a place called Cielo's, which was on the beach in White Rock. It has such a cozy, dark room with a fireplace, and a fun fish tank...the atmosphere is quite lovely. It got packed up quickly, so you must make a reso there! I haven't been in many years, but was happy to see their famous bruschetta was still on the menu. It is almost worth the trip out just for that, as it is seriously awesome, with their twist of blue cheese, oven dried tomatoes and house made balsamic glaze...delish. We didn't order it last night, because I am back on my cleanse for a while...and there were so many other dishes to try..that does tend to fill you up!

This is a tapas resto, so fun to go with another couple, or a group to share a few different items. Their wild mushroom risotto was fabulous! Tender, chunky mushrooms and wonderful flavours wrapped into a beautiful creamy rice. Their lamb Popsicles were also very nice (although not the best I have had), but came with the most fun and yummy house made naan bread...it was spicy and sweet at the same time and was a perfect dipper for the curry sauce.

Because I am also not eating shellfish or raw fish at the moment I didn't get a chance to sample the Tuna trio, which had a lovely presentation of ahi tunas done in three different styles...it looked awesome.

Ivan really enjoyed the king crab fondue...and it looked so much fun....a social must amongst buddies...any type of fondue is such fun to share. The presentation was lovely, and the crab looked tender and wonderful...Ivan said the meat was easy to remove and tasted really nice dipped into the artichoke, cheese and spinach hot pot!

There were so many other delicious items to order...buckets of mussels, all of the flat breads sounded scrumptious, and don't forget the oyster bar.

I think this is a great place to meet up with friends, or have a cozy, romantic evening a deux...so next time you are in White Rock, saddle up at Cielos and enjoy!

Dine out Vancouver

uggggg long time no blog....I really hate it when I don't get my daily writing fix in. But I have been so dang busy. Doing my yoga each morning AND dine out Vancouver is on right now, which means testing out some new restaurants!

Thursday night was Pastis with some new friends and it was lovely. Jam packed (lucky I had made a reso) and a little loud, but the food was nice. They are doing 3 courses for $28 or $38...I had the $28 and it was all delish...the leek soup, the flank steak with their AMAZING pomme frites and a wee apple pie for dessert. Ivan loved his escargot and his duck confit and also enjoyed the crepes Suzette to follow. It still ends up being a bit of a pricey night especially if you add wine...and usually we just share a dessert...but the portions were smallish so three courses was perfect!

Last night I went out with a wonderful girlfriend of mine and we tried to get into Red Door as they have a 3 course for $18 menu that sounds awesome...but it was totally full and I couldn't even get a reso...if you want to go, you must call a few days before and go either really early or really late. So we walked along south Granville and ended up at Thai Spice. As we were both on the Veggie train of thought we opted for a broccoli dish with chilli's and a yummy sauce and the veg Pad Thai which was AWESOME! We sat for hours gabbing and sipping tea and water and with those large dishes and a little rice our bill with tip was only $15 each!!! SWEET...a nice, delicious mid week treat that was very affordable. ...and it wasn't too loud to have a proper catch up session. All of their dishes sounded pretty interesting...I would certainly go back to try more! They did have a 3 course "dine out" menu, but it didn't look that appealing and we didn't feel like dessert.

Tonight we are heading out the door to meet friends we haven't seen in tooooo long....not sure where they made the reso, but it sounds like a cozy little place in White Rock...Ill keep you posted. Give Dine out Vancouver a try and Enjoy!

Sorry Mom- You Workin Woman You!

So it turns out, I must retract an entire blog entry for fear my mother will disown me. We were chatting the other night and she told me how offended she was by my blog entry "The roles of Man and Wife" because she did in fact work once we were in school....I guess I forgot? I didn't feel too badly though, because I truly didn't remember her working...what I remember is mom sending us off to school every morning with a kiss and pat on the head, and then we would come home for lunch most days and she was there waiting with smiles and hugs at 3:30 when school was out, ready to give us an after school snack. So it sure felt like she didn't "work".

But she corrected me saying that she went into the office (mom and dad own a company) and did all of the admin work as well as book keeping...now I remember her doing that when I was older...so perhaps I just got the time lines mixed up. Needless to say, now I am even more impressed because not only did mom work at the office she really made it feel like she was always home to care for us as well. Not only that, but when we started elementary school, she would volunteer in our classrooms! Even when we were in Jr. High and High school, she was home to see us out the door (or drive us to school), and packed our lunches everyday with yummy things, and my favorite part was the notes she would draw on the napkins for us: "have a sunshiny day" "Love you" "have fun" always with a little drawing of a smiling sun, flower, rainbow, butterfly or something equally as sweet....what a way to make your kids feel utterly loved.

So even though they did both work, I will still maintain my title "The roles of man and wife" simply because I did not see dad ever do any "domestic duties" in fact I am pretty sure he still does not know how to turn on the washing machine...and probably has never heard of an iron! One of my favorite memories of dads attempt at domestication was when mom was out of town for a week and he had to take care of us. Thankfully we are still alive today! His first task was to make our lunches. Mom had bought some deli meat to last for the week. School rolled around on Monday and I pulled my ginormous sandwich out of my bag...two slices of white wonderbread, smothered in butter and mayo and about a pound of meat inside. He had used up all of the meat in one sandwich...total Lornie style...bigger is better. Shayne, who was at a different school experienced the same thing...we came home and laughed about it together afterwards. Neither of us could even eat the sandwich because it was just too damn meaty. We were thankful when mom came back home.

Perhaps we adopt certain male and female "roles" simply because we are better at performing those tasks. I certainly don't fix the plumbing, or cut crown molding or lay tile like Ivan does...but then again I know quite a few women who do....I guess it is up to us to find out what we are good at, yet to always be open to helping or learning a new skill. Two years ago I painted the ceiling of our home...never done that before...and quite frankly, no need for me to do it again...that can be the man role...as can emptying the trash...tried it once or twice and it sucked. I will stick to my role in the kitchen....I like it there..it always smells good. Enjoy!

Finding your Niche

I think finding a niche is an extremely important quest in life. What is it that you are good at...better than most others...love to do etc. I was thinking of this the other day while we were on our weekend walk for the usual tea and muffin. There is the store that opened up about a year ago on West Broadway...I don't even think it had a name...it looked like shit from the moment it opened its doors. It was to be an Organic meat market.....wow, did they ever miss the mark. It more resembled a freakishly drab meat locker that you would store dead bodies in.

I was so excited when they had first announced a meat market would be opening up just 2 blocks away...but disappointment quickly ensued once inside. There was one long freezer along one side of the store, and along the other side there was one long refrigerator case that looked like the dairy section of Safeway. Everything was packaged with plastic wrap, just like Safeway as well...in fact, I think they probably went and bought everything from there, slapped an organic sticker on it and re-sold it for more!!!

After a few months, I am guessing product was not moving...no shit...especially when Safeway is actually next door and actually looks more appealing...and we have Market Meats and Jackson's on West 4th....two GORGEOUS places for beautiful meats. So this little rinky dink of a store decided to make it more appealing by stocking some shelves with cereal....now that's exactly where I want to buy my fricken corn flakes...the meat store...makes TOTAL sense.

A few months pass again, and the variety of cereals has now expanded...and they bring in chocolate and nuts, a few more weeks and low and behold now I can also buy toilet paper there!!! It was actually hilarious...each time Ivan and I walked by we would giggle at what they brought in next....this was a perfect example of not finding your niche....it was a very confused store.

As you might imagine, the store went under over the holidays, because we came back from vacation to find the same shelves, now filled with cheap junky jewelry, scarves and hair accessories....I am pretty sure its the same owners...perhaps this is their true calling...their true niche....only time will tell, next week they could bring in fish!

If you are a business owner, and you are wavering in your direction...please be sure to take the time to develop and master your niche...stick with it...and instead of changing directions every month or two...work at making one idea even stronger. Read, learn from others...find a mentor, but for god sakes do not try to sell meat if you are a fisherman....good luck and enjoy!

Network like a Pro

I am a networking pro...it is confirmed, I am brilliant at it...and I feel proud to say that. I didn't realize how difficult it really is for so many people...especially those who depend on it for their careers.

I network a lot in my career, but I can honestly thank my mom and dad for many of the skills I have developed over the years. Mom is certainly not shy to strike up a conversation with a stranger...and dad is amazing...by the time he is done checking out at the grocery store, he has learned about the cashiers day and her other part time job. Go to a restaurant where he has more time, and he will have learned the servers life history, family status, and life goals. He is amazing, and talks to everyone...which most likely has contributed largely to his business success. He loves meeting people.

I wouldn't say I show quite as much interest to all strangers as he does...and at times (when I am not in the mood) I have to remind myself of the wonderful opportunities that could be just around the other side of the next "hello". Not to say that dads motivations to chat were just to open up new potential opportunities...but I am sure they are a part of it.

Last night Ivan and I were invited to a networking event by a friend. I haven't been to a networking event outside of my industry for many years....and I was curious to see if I would enjoy it. Now, I consider myself a Networking pro, but was that just within my own industry...where I feel confident about my topic of discussion and I already know 80% of the people? Last night was the night to test myself....and low and behold, my hunch was right...I was just as amazing with a group of strangers!! One lady even offered to pay me to come to Networking events with her...she said she just couldn't do what I do!

Of course this skill doesn't really work to my benefit as I am not an entrepreneur...but luckily my husband is! So if you are a business owner, and looking to meet new potential clients and referral sources, here are a few brief suggestions (perhaps I will write a book on it one day):

• Have fresh breath...or be sure to carry a mint (don't chew gum because it looks unprofessional)
• Have a firm hand shake-ladies, this means you too!
• Look for someone standing on their own, or a small group of 2 who look open to chatting
• Grab a fricken drink....a little booze always loosens ya up (just don't grab too many)
• Be inquisitive-ask people what they do, show interest and keep asking questions
• Bring a wing man if you need...but don't just stand around talking to them all night
• Set a goal of talking to x many new people
• Have fun....it can kind of become a little game

I really believe networking is a very important skill for entrepreneurs, but it is equally important for life in general...because you just never know when you could meet your soul mate, best friend or new business partner! So get over your fears, step out of your box and sign up for the next networking event in your hood, and don't forget to Enjoy!

The Roles of Man and Wife

Growing up in my household my parents had very "traditional" style roles...aka, Man = brings home bacon, Woman = helps man survive.

Yes, my wonderful mother cooked, cleaned, mended, prepared, kissed it better, and did everything humanly possible to keep a fabulous home. Papa brought home the bacon...literally, that was the one chore he had assigned...the grocery shopping...and he still enjoys it today.

Although those particular roles seemed to work for my parents (and many others), I knew at a young age that I wanted something different...something more balanced when it came to $$ and home. I always wanted to marry a man who was a chef, or at least very skilled in the kitchen...don't get me wrong, Ivan is certainly skilled at eating all of the food in the kitchen...but he doesn't really like to cook. For years this has kinda bugged me....he had all of the other traits I was looking for in a partner...why oh why won't he make me a beautiful dinner??

Then tonight, as I watch Ivan iron a bunch of our clothes while he peacefully views the hockey game...I instantly feel grateful. We are certainly not a couple who embodies the old fashioned roles of "man and wife". When I think about it, I am very fortunate to have found a man who irons...I hate ironing...and I also hate cleaning....how lucky for me that Ivan doesn't mind, and he is an expert at tetris-ing the dishwasher...in fact I constantly get scolded when I don't load it according to his strict standards.

I do the laundry, because I don't mind doing it at all...in fact I rather enjoy the scented fluffy warm clothes and towels fresh from the dryer. As you can see...it's pretty even. We both grocery shop..often together, and he is damn good at opening a delicious bottle of wine while I prepare our meal.....

I may still dream of the day when I come home from work and dinner is being served...but in the meantime, I will certainly feel thankful that I have a well stacked dishwasher, unwrinkled clothes, and a damn sexy guy for a husband...for those things alone I most certainly will Enjoy!

Early to Bed

I was feeling a little ashamed about my early bedtime...embarrassed that I am in my early 30s, no kids, healthy and I am sound asleep by 10:00pm or just a few minutes past. My parents, who are in their 60s stay up later than me. On New Years Eve, Ivan and I were in bed, asleep by 1:30am, only to hear my mom and dad rocked on until 5am. What a sad state of affairs.

That said, there is a lot going on in a early 30s life...career balanced with love, and managing friendships and family obligations can really take a lot out of a gal. One of my girlfriends sent around this study that was done a while ago stating that women in their early thirties experience the most fatigue...AND we all felt relieved when we saw that, because apparently we all completely agreed.

I get up at 5:40am to do yoga (because I know if I leave it until after work, I just wont go) so that means early to bed. During our travels in South America, because we were on a scheduled itinerary for the most part, we were up very early, and sometimes went to bed at 8:30 or 9pm. we enjoyed a nice dinner, sipped tea and chatted a bit and then hit the pillow....and I really liked that. I mean come on...why does one really need to stay up past 9pm if you think about it....what is there really to do? I guarantee that most people end up watching t.v. if they are up past 9pm...and what a waste of brain that is! I try to get a bit of reading in...or blogging (as you can tell). And then its off to dream land. One of the ways I ensure a sound sleep is to write a "To Do" list for the next day's activities...it clears my mind.

Well, its 9:58pm....off to bed I go, sweet dreams and enjoy!

Creating Space

This past weekend I just had to clean. I always feel at the beginning of each year, that I need to start fresh...out with the old...create space.

I hate cleaning...if I had a million bucks, I would certainly hire someone to do it for me...that said....there is almost something therapeutic about cleaning your space. Clutter in my physical surroundings seems to create clutter in my brain. Too much stuff squeezed into too little space. So I decided to start with the bedroom. I went through my closet and dresser drawers and took everything out and created three piles....toss, donate, consign. I consign a lot of my clothing...you know...those pieces that you bought on a whim, without careful consideration, because they were a "good deal" yet they sit in the closet, tags still attached..never warn...(the ones your husband scolds you for) yes, those pieces I take to my local consignment store. I get a bit of cash every few months...and why the heck not!

I actually stuffed two HUGE green garbage bags full of "toss" items! I couldn't believe it...we live in a condo, and I have had two huge bags filled with absolute shit taking up valuable space. My rule is..if I haven't warn it in over 1 year...it goes. Sometimes I feel some sort of bond with these inanimate items..well maybe in the spring with my pink heals??...but nope..if I stick to my 1yr rule...out it goes. AND...it feels wonderful!

Sunday I moved onto my office and cleared out my filing cabinet and tossed a bunch of crap...low and behold, I actually have space on the shelves...how wonderful. I have extra room in my dresser and closet...hopefully for new clothes that I LOVE!

I think it is important to cleanse your physical space if not every few months, at the very least each January....it just feels like a fresh start. I updated my vision board with new photos..set some new goals for the year, and really enjoy opening my drawers and closets to find order, organization and space...exactly what my brain needs...craves...and god knows is deprived of often...my husband calls me his "little slobalina" I am not proud of this term...and I really really want to earn a new term...something like queen of calm, or zen mastress...because I certainly believe that a beautiful space = a beautiful mind.

So set aside a day, or a weekend...or if you have kids..perhaps just an hour, and chip away at a "messy" project... be sure to reward yourself with chocolate afterwards...then sit back, relax in your new found space and Enjoy!

Cooking with Mickey!

Yesterday was as lovely as a Sunday could be! It was tea and muffin day...and even though it was raining out....we geared up with umbrellas and started to walk. We ran into some friends along the way for a nice little chat, and then carried on. We were going to go to our usual place Aphrodite's. But instead Ivan suggested we walk towards Point Grey...and as we walked along, up Alma then down 10th, we passed a little place called My Local Cafe (3770 W10th). There was a sign out front saying gluten free baking...I immediately wanted to try it out, and so thrilled I did. It is a great little spot and has a huge variety of gluten free baking and entrees. I opted to try the ginormous pumpkin and pear muffin and Ivan had the blueberry banana. I was thrilled with my choice...it was absolutely delicious and I couldn't believe it was gluten free...moist and still warm from the oven, filled with pumpkin seeds and lots of love. Ivan wasn't as thrilled about his choice, as he felt it was "rubbery"...I had a few bites and would have to disagree...I thought it was light and fluffy...although maybe a little on the bouncy side. They have a case filled with gluten free lasagna and salads and wonderful lunch options..



So we sat in peace, I read my book, Ivan read the paper, we lingered and chatted, sipped our tea and coffee, nibbled our muffins and had a perfect morning together.



We started on the walk back, stopping for our usual Sunday produce stock up, and back home to call Ivan's Uncle Mickey. We were expecting him and Ivan's cousin Grant (who I had yet to meet), for dinner. But they had left a message saying they would be dropping over earlier than expected, so would arrive around 3pm. So, I didn't have to worry about making dinner...or so I thought! They arrived and we had a lovely visit over tea and conversation...then an hour or so later, my dear husband decides to say....so, what are your plans...are you staying for a while...should we go out for some dinner....OR hey Heather...can you make something? OMG, as if you said that you dink...I immediately froze...I am opposite of a "spontaneous" cook...I don't just whip shit together...I research recipes, buy the ingredients and then prepare. So I just shook my head no...mouth gaping that he would even suggest that...unsure what was the polite thing to do.



There was a bit of an awkward silence....they decided to stay and chat for a while longer....when a thought occurred to me...yesterday I had bought some new fancy pasta, olives and spicy salami from my trip to Bosa foods, we had just bought a load of fresh produce and I had some frozen prawns kicking around. I could make a pasta....so I quickly share my prawn pasta idea with the our guests, and the most wonderful thing happened...Ivan's 80 year old Uncle Mickey blurts out a super easy recipe...AND offers to help!!!! I was delighted...a can of crushed tomatoes simmered down in a bit of butter and oil, garlic, paprika (wonderful unique addition), a few orange peppers tossed in at the end along with the prawns and voila! I roasted up some Parmesan broccoli on the side (my new fave way to eat it) as Uncle Micky cooked away with me in the kitchen....I LOVED it....it was so much fun...who knew he was such a foodie. He told me all about the authentic Indian dishes he makes (as he grew up in India), how to properly saute bok choy and a bunch of other lovely tips....so I made sure to invite ourselves over to his place for dinner!



The four of us sat, ate, and talked....no dessert...dang...I have to have some sort of emergency plan for that one next time. I never fancied myself as an impromptu kind of cook...had to plan days in advance with friends....but with some essentials in the pantry and freezer...I am now armed and dangerous....so I dare you to "pop by" ....because I am sure you will Enjoy!

A Hair Slut- Possibly Reformed?

I am a hair stylist slut. No two ways about it...the longest I have ever been loyal to a stylist is approx 2.5 years, and then I get fed up and try someone else. I have probably had 100 stylists over my lifetime.

My main criteria for a stylist....must be within walking distance (really high standards eh)...and I prefer them to be nice looking (I know, what a bitch...but its true), know when to gab and when you are washing my hair, when to shut up.

Here is how the typical scenario goes. I have a stylist I have seen for maybe 1 or 2 cuts..the first cut will determine if I will come back or not...if you get me a second time, you should be thrilled. Often, the same typical thing happens...the first cut rocks...I go back and do something more drastic, but cannot recreate it at home...uggg...thats what happened with my last bob...stupid fucken bobs....I hate bobs, and I never want to have one again. If I ever go really short again, I want my hair like Lisa Rinna, not the stupid bob...which is actually much more high maintenance than it first appears.

I regress...so I have been seeing this stylist for about 2 years now, and I think he is okay...but he meets my first criteria of being within walking distance, as his salon is on the same block...he is nice looking...but talks to me at the wrong times....but alas...he is close by.

My husband, on the other hand has had the same hair stylist for probably 10 years...and he drives all the way down to commercial drive to see her. I was feeling crazy the other day...and in desperate need of a hair cut after our trip, so I told him to book me in with his gal Lori.

The appointment was yesterday....and it was dark and pouring rain as my appointment time approached....I HATE driving in the rain....in fact, I hate driving anywhere unless it directly involves me making $$ or there is good food involved....other than that...forget it...I walk, someone else drives or I just don't go. So I begged Ivan to drive...I even tempted him with a visit to Bosa foods (an Italian grocery store) afterwards...for some reason that didn't seem to work....but it worked for me....that was my motivation to go to this stupid effing appointment all the way down to stupid commercial drive.....I would go to Bosa foods after...okay...good incentive.

I angrily grabbed my keys and said to Ivan "she better suck, because there is no way I am going to drive all the effing way out there for my hair cuts" ..he replied "I am sure she will dear".

I drive down to commercial in the pouring rain and FINALLY after an exhausting 20 minutes, disgusted by my surroundings...I arrive. I have to park 2 blocks away and walk in the pouring rain...AND commercial is my least favorite area of Vancouver...its dotted with crack houses (yes they may cost $1mm but only stupid retard Vancouverites would pay such a price), scary people with tattoos and cigarettes walk along the streets...and I hate everything about it...I don't fit in here....I am sure to get mugged.....Ivan should feel ashamed for sending me to this section of town by myself.

I walk into Kokopelli, and take a seat in the cozy, warm salon. Things are looking up...I like the funky decor, the little couch is comfy, there are lots of good magazines to read...they bring me a steaming cup of organic green tea AND...oh dear....there are fancy baked cinnamon twists sitting out for the guests to enjoy...and they are good....SHIT....a salon that serves snackies while you wait...oh dear...I like it already, but am trying my best not to.

Then I meet the lovely Lori, we immediately step into an easy conversational flow...I like her. I bring two photos of celeb hair that I would like her to magically recreate. I brought these same photos into my last guy...and clearly he missed the mark on all accounts. She says it should be no probs...cuts my hair dry which is a first...and actually thins out my already fine hair, in order to make it appear more full...AND it worked! Then she washed my hair and I felt a second visit coming on....she gave me a nice, strong head massage (which the last guy never did) and other than food...that is just the way to my heart (take note husband).

Then she blew out my hair, curled it AND.......I LOVED it....I looked effin gorgeous...best cut I think I have ever had...and she achieved exactly the look I was going for!

Now I will have to style it myself and see how it goes...but I have a really good feeling about it. Afterwards, I did indeed treat myself to a visit to the famously amazing Bosa foods, and thought....I guess, I will have to change my criteria....perhaps having a stylist who actually cuts my hair awesomely well should be number one.....besides, technically I am travelling for food as well, which is an incentive I will always Enjoy!

An Appreciation for my Travels

Considering yesterday's thoughts about all of the things that South America does not have, I figured it would only be fair to reminisce about the wonderful things it does have.



These are just a few of the things I found true appreciation for in my travels to Peru and Bolivia.



Fruits and Veg-There is an abundance of big, beautiful ORGANIC fruits and veg. Some of the markets we saw put our local ones to shame...piles upon piles of gorgeous gleaming fruit for pennies. A big difference from your local organic market that charges $10 for a grape.



Fresh fruit juices-Almost every single restaurant we went to...even the crappier ones, served fresh squeezed fruit juices...and not just orange..but passion fruit, strawberry, kiwi...you name it...they had it...and a for only about $1 for a huge, brimming glass full. Last time I ordered freshly squeezed o.j. at a local diner, they gave me a glass the size of a childrens sippy cup and charged me $6...pathetic. In Bolivia you couldn't walk down the street more than 5 minutes before a mobile o.j. vendor would pass by!



Spanish- really, such a beautiful language...I feel inspired to learn it, and I may just sign up for a course this year.



Deffinition of beauty-I did not see one super model in Bolivia. Instead I saw big, beautiful ladies, shaped like a spin top. Covered in bright layers of cloth, with long black hair and a bolero hat secured to their heads. The city was not plastered with posters of anorexic models, and most of the days they just sat in the sun by their sales stands, snacking on a good portion of their wares.



Saltenas-Sweet little pastery pillows, filled with love (aka chicken and veggies with a gorgeous spice) If you can get them freshly baked, they are wonderful...as are their empanadas. Best place for both is Sucre, Bolivia at a little shop where the nuns make them! Take note...these are a morning snack..are are not served fresh in the afternoon.



Breads-As I had mentioned before, I had not eaten so much white bread since I was a little kid. But every morning for breakfast, there was white bread served. All of our breakfasts were included, so it was a little continental/buffet style...but I have to say...I never felt bloated, or badly and much of it was delicious! Many of the places served freshly made rolls or buns from the locals. I have to say, I quite enjoyed skipping my protein shakes, and instead having a fresh white bun, smothered in butter, with a little slice of cured meat and local cheese for breakfast!!!!



Pace of Life-Yes, the driving was psycho crazy...but most of the towns we went to had people selling things at their little stands...and quite the sales people they were...many were fast asleep in a corner on a pile of the clothes they were selling. No computers, no blackberrys to "make the next deal" no rushing to an appointment....just, slow, still content.



Meeting new Friends-okay, maybe this isn't specific to S. America...but there is something about using horrible bathrooms, dodging traffic, and effed up bowel movements that brings people closer together.

There are certainly many more...but that is all I can think of for now...perhaps when I upload my photos, you can see for yourself and enjoy!

The Realization of Grateful-Lessons from South America

I have now been back home sweet home for a few days. It was kind of weird at first....the jet lag...arriving home in the middle of the night and up early for work the next day...I felt like I was in a bubble. Nothing had changed. Did I think something was going to change??? Or had I changed. Not really....but I can tell you there are a few things that I was taking for granted on a daily basis that I shall no longer....

Bathrooms-As mentioned previously, the bathroom situation! Having nice clean, working toilets....many of them...everywhere, and you can use them for FREE! Every time we had to go to the bathroom in Bolivia, we had to pay and they were disgusting. On many occasions there was no running water, so we had to flush our business down with a bucket of water.

Toilet Paper- Going with the theme above...we had to carry a roll or two at ALL times. Our tour guide in Bolivia said it was mandatory (thought she was joking....nope...we really needed it). We got into the habit of stealing the roll left over from every hotel we were in on the trip. My trips to Cost-Co for toilet paper will now seem much more meaningful.

Flushing your paper-Can you notice a theme yet? This was super disgusting...but EVERY hotel we were in...even the nice one at the end of the trip, made you throw your USED toilet paper into the little garbage can...it was forbidden to throw it into the toilet!!!! SICK...and even sicker yet...Ivan and I have been home for 3 days and each time we wipe, we look for the garbage can.....amazing how quickly you can form a habit...as I have said in other blogs..it only takes 28 days to form a habit....if we can form this gross habit....perhaps we should try exercising daily!

Soap- Yet another sought after commodity...we were thankful for the baby wipes we brought as well as our beloved sanitary gel...used often...but it was nice to come home to loads of thick white bars of soap...dish soap...hand soap...ahhhhh soap.

Heat- when the days were warm, this typically was not an issue...but in the evenings when it cooled down, our hotels/hostels were freezing...FREEZING I say....AND this was their summer season. A few of the hotels gave us little heaters to plug in....one place actually provided hot water bottles...sweet Ivan would scatter them in the bed before I would jump in. The question is...how does one keep their nose warm at night? I have an eternally cold nose...hard to keep that sucker warm.

Showers-This one became the most sought after on the Inca trail...no showers, but heck it was camping and everyone was in the same boat. But the quality of showers on the whole trip was poor...some just a trickle of water...some scalding hot with no balance...some that didn't even work, and some with mould growing inside....I am sooo grateful for my shiny, clean shower, with endless hot water and amazing water pressure...it almost feels like I am in a spa everyday!

Bed-I generally can sleep quite well when travelling...that is when I am staying at a lovely hotel with a plush bed and fluffy pillows...zero problem...sweet dreams. This trip did not quite include any of the above...instead we slept on anything from a huge slab of salt, to a bed with a dip at the end...a single bed, in a room with 3 other snoring, farting people (okay, one was me) that had Star Wars sheets on it...a bed that disguised itself as a bed by piling 10 or 12 gross blankets on top....I am so utterly grateful for my big, queen size, cozy bed with soft 400 thread count sheets.

Pure Water-An essential part of daily life....you cannot drink the water in the places we travelled. Thankfully bottled water was cheap...but a pain to remember to always stock up for the day ahead...sometimes we would run out close to bed time and have nothing to brush our teeth with. This is something I certainly took for granted before...and now I fully appreciate each time I fill my glass up with beautiful, crystal clean water from the sink.

Safe Transportation- I think we almost died a minimum of 25 times on this trip...from the crazy taxi drivers, death-wish bus drivers...bouncing, rickety trains...when I was driving to the office yesterday, I actually felt peaceful...relaxed...there was lots of space on the roads....drivers were conforming to the rules of the red and green lights and staying in their own lanes...not creating new ones...I am certainly thankful that we can drive here in relative peace.

Sunblock- yes they sell it there...but no, not everyone can afford it. It was sad to hear of the high skin cancer rates..and how many people were dying at the young age of 40 because of it. We would see little kiddies with burns so bad on their little cheeks...all because they either couldn't afford it...or just didn't know better...we slathered it on daily.

Those were the main necessities of life (other than my wonderful closet full of clothes and shoes, makeup, hair accessories and jewlery..you know..all the really important stuff) that I was very much taking for granted each day. Basic needs such as water, shelter and safety...every day I sit it my beautiful warm home...I can turn the heat on when I please...my shower is like a spa, and my bed is made for a Queen, I sip water from a clean fountain and feel safe and secure in my beautiful life. We work hard for what we have, and do not teach our children to hold out their hands on the streets for money....perhaps we should also be teaching them that all of these things we have.. big and small, are not so readily enjoyed by millions of others....I am THANKFUL for my entire well being, and the Country we live in...and the fact that we could afford to take such an amazing journey..through the lessons of life...look around you, and ENJOY!

The Final Chapter-Cusco Peru

After the height of the Inca Trail and Machu Picchu, and the pure elation of the day touring the ruins and hearing tales of the Incas, we tiredly gathered onto the bus which would take us down to the touristy town Aguas Calientes. This is where you can find some Hot Springs and a variety of hotels and restaurants...where the lame people stay, you know, the ones who take the train up to Machu Picchu and get to have a hot shower each night! We arrived and had an hour to kill so were going to get some lunch when we realized that we had 10$ left and no credit card. Nice...we were hungry and tired so walked around through the market and bought a water and two huge mangoes...then we were broke. But I must say the Mangoes in Peru and Bolivia are some of the BEST you have ever had....meaty and juicy...it really was just like a meal.

So we sat on a sidewalk and listened to a fun band near by...watched some children playing in the square and devoured our lunch of mango. The sun was still warm and gorgeous and I loved just sitting there with Ivan, laughing as bright orange mango juice trickled down our arms....it was a perfect way to end such a remarkable trip.

After that we met with our group and hopped on the lovely train and then bus for the very long ride home to Cusco. Everyone was very tired...thank god I was so tired as apparently the bus driver had a death wish and brought us close to it many times. We finally arrived at 8pm...we all quickly parted ways and went to our rooms to partake in a warm SHOWER!!! It felt like heaven....I didn't rush....but instead lingered in the warm water and scrubbed every bit of my tired, dirty bod. It is amazing the things you take for granted in your daily life.

We were too tired to eat supper....YES dear readers, you can just imagine HOW tired I must have been to skip one of my favorite meals of the day (other than breaky, brunch, lunch and snack time). At 8:45 pm we drifted off to sleep with dreams of breakfast.

We awoke refreshed and feeling good ready to devour the buffet. That morning we had to check out early and head to our final destination...the final hotel. We had parted ways with our GAP group the night before and we were going to stay in a hotel that my boss had recommended....we both kept our fingers crossed that it was nice....we didn't want a repeat of the "romantic nature hotel." I was praying for a nice hotel for my own sanity and relaxation, and Ivan was praying for a nice hotel because he KNEW I would be a Royal pain in the ass if not. YAY ...it was a delight!!! The Andenes al Cielo was amazing.....again under normal Heather circumstances it wouldn't have been considered in such high regard...but I LOVED it. I was so happy....no spiders, no bugs....crisp, clean, soft, white sheets, a large shower with loads of hot water, a little flat screen t.v. Now THIS was the perfect way to end our trip...we had 2 days and nights of pure relaxation.

Each day we went for a massage, and lingered over some delicious foods...one of the best restaurants we went to was called Baco on 465 Ruinas st. It was gorgeous and delicious....certainly fine dining. Since we were going to meet up with some of the group who were still in Cusco, I slathered on the make up and put my best backpacker evening wear on....Ivan bought me some pretty earrings that day so I was feeling like a real sassy gal in my lipstick and hiking boots. The dinners were amazing....I was jealous of Ivan's Alpaca steak with wasabi cream and mashed yams....as my crackling pork dish was a little on the rich side for me....but heck...the Champagne did just the trick to make everything taste wonderful...it was a lovely celebration with the people we had just spent the last four days conquering the world with. One of the girls I didn't even recognize with makeup on....no one should be forced to not wear make up for 4 days straight....let alone, not blow dry their hair. Did I mention that a major tragedy happened at the start of my trip in Bolivia....the very first day...I got out of the shower, plugged in my blow dryer and flames came out right before it died. I was mortified....one full month of very very bad hair....and as most of you know...I already have hair issues....so I was forced to become "at one" with my hair for an entire month....needless to say, I wore a lot of hats!

We lazed about for our final day...doing not much of anything and a lot of relaxing, snuggling and eating...recounting the highlights and low lights of our trip...and imagining what the start of a new year would bring upon our return. As I sit here at my desk today, with every single amenity at my manicured finger tips...I feel proud of our month long journey through Peru and Bolivia, and will cherish the fond memories I have created....and remind myself when things get tough in life...I can always go to a nice clean bathroom whenever the fuck I want!

Days 3 and 4-Inca Trail

The third day was meant to be the unforgettable day...because we were going down to the Rain forest, and it was supposed to be beautiful. Unfortunately we finally had our first day of crappy weather so it was misty and foggy and very rainy. It only down poured for a few moments during the day, but the view was a bit marred. That said, you could just imagine what the scenery would have looked like if the sun were shining....it was gorgeous..and even in the fog ...it looked mystical.

The hike was easier today, and Ivan and I hung about 5mins behind the group to stop and take photos of the flowers, bamboo and winding paths. And half way through the day ....IT HIT....my stomach began to gurgle, the cold sweats came in and I needed to find a bathroom fast. Clearly all of the different foods over the past month had finally taken their toll.....going from a Naturopathic cleanse for two months to eating rich foods was ready to give me revenge.

Unsure of what to do, I just focused on the path...praying that a solution would present itself...after about 30 minutes I asked the guide sweetly "when is the next bathroom stop"? He politely replied...not for another 2 hrs....so Ivan and I can guard the path while you use the panoramic toilet. OMG....really?! Clearly he thought I only had to go tinkle....but I was desperate....so Ivan tried to scout out a corner on the narrow path as it began to rain hard. He found a slightly hidden corner....FORGET IT!!! there is now effin way I was going to take a diarrhea on the open path in the rain...I started to cry a little...thinking why the fuck did we spend so much $$ on this stupid trip when I could be in Hawaii or some exotic place where I can take a shit whenever I should require it....my new definition of luxury.

Needless to say, we had to take the short way and missed out on extra 20min jungle tour, but I didn't care...I thought I was going to explode, so ran for the last 30mins, praying for a nice toilet...and as soon as we got there, our guide told me to just use the ranger station toilet and he would ask permission after.....I RAN past all of these dudes with guns, wondering what I was doing...and finally found relief....and I am sure everyone right up to Machu Picchu heard it. It was as bad as that scene from Dumb and Dumber....thank god I would never have to see these people again.

Ivan was waiting in a little museum close by...and came out and said..."don't go in there" I wondered why as I peaked inside and immediately saw large glass cases filled with terror. That's right...filled with all of the creatures that one could find in the area....I saw 3 or 4 HUGE furry spiders and a few snakes and ran the other direction....and those were just inside the doorway...There was a whole room dedicated to those disgusting creatures....I immediately tried to make my brain think of gum drops, lolly pops and rainbows.

We feasted on yet another beautiful meal that evening before retiring very early. I slept slightly better because I was so exhausted from all of the days activities. 3 am came very fast. We had to get up so early in order to be the first group at the entrance to the park, where we would take our final walk to the Sun Gate. We ate a bit of breakfast, popped our headlamps on and made our way to the checkpoint....we were the second group in line, as a Private group made it before us.

Here we had to wait for a few hours, in the cold and dark for the station to open up. Crowds were piling in behind us....everyone in great anticipation of the coveted view from the Sun Gate. As the time approached you could feel the energy in the crowd shift....people became anxious and excited...and then we were through the gates and there began the Amazing race...or should I call it the retarded race. Everyone took off like a shot gun, trying to get ahead of one another...I did my best to keep up with Ivan who wanted so desperately to get to the next checkpoint to get a ticket for Huayna Picchhu (another mountain to climb-psycho). We passed the first group within minutes, and then some folks behind us pushed past as they wanted to be in the lead....it was stupid...as I felt my lungs heave...feeling like a heifer, I stopped. I decided not to keep up the ridiculous pace...just so I could be of the first to see the sun gate.

I relaxed...took a breath and looked around...it was beautiful...and all of those losers ahead were totally oblivious to the views around. I took a sip of water, tied my hair back, ate a few snacks and then carried along at my own pleasant pace. I clambered up some very steep rocks, and huffing and puffing I saw a small group of people lounging about...I quickly asked which way I was supposed to go to find the magical sun gate...and they all replied with disappointment...this is it. Oh...okay...THIS is it? The fog and mist had rolled in, so we were not going to experience the famous sun rise....we couldn't even see Machu Picchu. So we decided to wait and see if the fog would burn off. We sat and chatted for about 30mins before we finally got our first view of the famous city of the Incas. It was pretty cool...but nothing to be pushy and competitive about. Hundreds of people sat on the walls of the sun gate...the obnoxious loser from Brazil attempting to get the crowd to yell and cheer...but I was content to sit in peace and snack on my granola bar and cookies.

Eventually we carried on, and the sun burned through the clouds and we made our way through the spectacular ruins of Machu Picchu. It was super cool....at the beginning of the trip, I thought I might get emotional...have some profound spiritual experience...feel at one with life....but nope...felt nothing but hungry. Don't get me wrong...yes it was certainly cool...amazing to see what this ancient civilization had created so high on a mountain top....but for me, the real adventure, learning and excitement was on the path of the Inca Trail. I mostly felt happy that I (and my marriage) had survived 4 days of intense hiking (to me), rain, smelly bodies, annoying people, disgusting toilets and extreme elevation. It was certainly 4 days that I would never forget...and as I sat there, snacking on a sandwich, I felt a sense of pride, and accomplishment.... a feeling that anyone would surely Enjoy!

Day 2-Inca Trail

Day two was considered the "tough"day....and it was! We were woken up at 5:30am by our friendly porters with a cup of hot coca tea, which was so lovely, after the shit sleep we had. Even though we rented the extra mattresses, how comfortable can sleeping in a tent really be! The coca tea was meant to give us energy and assist with the increased altitude. Today we would climb up to 4000 plus meters and often people get altitude sickness. We were fine however, because we were in Bolivia before and got used to it.

It was a little chilly in the morning, but a steaming bowl of Quinoa porridge followed by a cute little omelet did just the trick. We were provided with a little snack pack for the day as well, and off we went. The hike was all up hill for about 5 hours....I was thankful I had rented two poles to assist me with the steep and rocky stairs. The group split into two...the die hards who raced ahead and barely stopped for the view...and the ...how should I say...thee contemplative group....the one who stopped to smell the flowers....I was in that group! And although Ivan probably wanted to be in the super fast group, he stuck behind with me. We made it into a lovely day, stopping every hour or so, for a little sit-down mini picnic with all of the snacks we brought. We shared chocolates and chippies, cookies and candies....exchanged giggles and great conversation of the experience we were all sharing. Ozzy was with us and it was great because he was able to tell us about some of the vegetation and a lot of great stories along the way!

We climbed and climbed and felt our lungs push to the limits until we finally reached the top!!!! It was a proud moment, as we took a break to take photos before we started the 2 hour decline to the camp site. It began to drizzle as we cautiously made our way down a steep, slippery path of jumbled steps....the scenery was like Lord of the Rings...just gorgeous. In fact many people say that parts of the hike do look similar to New Zealand....breathtaking. We clumsily made our way down the path and were greeted close to the bottom by a few of the porters with steaming tea and a cheese sandwich....how wonderful!

We finally arrived at the camp site....the folks from the speedy group had already been waiting for hours....I was thrilled that we had taken the time to enjoy the trekk...take lots of photos and enjoy some lovely picnics along the way. I simply did not understand those folks who had to get there First....but....that's just me. We settled in for a delicious lunch of potato soup and an amazing lasagna with a side of chicken in a spicy sauce. We had the afternoon to relax, so we washed up a bit with our wet naps (needless to say we still smelled like ass)...and we promptly fell asleep...it was a loooong day. Then before we knew it 5pm came rolling around so we once again piled into the dining tent for tea. We then had a game of Quiddler (our fave card game) with a few of the group before digging into yet another feast for dinner.

The cooks continued to amaze me....now don´t get me wrong, when we camp I can cook up some pretty awesome stuff...but NOTHING compared to what they made us!!! I can certainly say that we were never hungry...if anything overstuffed....but it was all excellent. That night, because we had completed the hardest day on the trail we were treated to a special cake!!!! Yes, CAKE I say! And it was a damn fancy cake....how in the world they prepared it at such a high elevation in the middle of nowhere is beyond me. It was delicious and even had a layer of jello on the top...ummmm who carried the damn fridge?! It was a masterpiece..and even had beautifully done icing and writing on the top...WOW....truly inspiring!

That night we really fought for sleep, and lost. Being that high up in altitude made it quite cold and damp and trying to sleep in your clothes, in a sausage of a sleeping bag made for little shut eye and lots of tossing and turning. So that 5:30am wake up call was NOT pretty to say the least. In fact...its the first time EVER Ivan actually looked at me as I was trying to clumsily dress myself and said..."I never thought I would say this, but you look like total SHIT" Yes, thank you for pointing that out....not only did my breath taste like someone had used my tongue as toilet paper, but my face and eyes were so puffy I thought I was the spawn of the Pillsberry doughboy and Rosanne Barr....I longed for my cleanser, toner and eye cream....where were my new shiny black heals...or at least my mascara? Well I did bring a small set of tweezers...maybe if I pluck my eyebrows then no one will notice how ugly I look? No time for primping...into the tent we pile for some sweet breads and a nice fluffy pancake...and then we were off...set afoot for the long decline down into the rain forest which I knew I would enjoy!

The Inca Trai-Day 1

WOW...WE DID IT!!!!!!! What an experience to say the least. It all seems like a dream by now...a very exciting and wonderful one at that. We began the adventure on January 2nd with a new GAP group and our new and fabulous guide Ozzy (nick name). We were very lucky to have Ozzy for our leader, because just like our Solley from Bolivia, he was very passionate about his country and helped us to learn much about the culture. We did a one day tour of Cuzco and the Sacred Valley by bus which was gorgeous. We stopped at a little village and watched the women make authentic Alpaca products (not the fake ones you often see in the markets). We watched them dye the wool by boiling it with different leaves, or flowers...all natural. We also learned why the Peruvian woman have such amazing hair. They all have extremely thick long, shiny, dark hair tied into two braids....dream hair really. Ozzy mentioned that none of them has grey hair, even when they are 100yrs old...no greys! They wash their hair with mashed avacado! And once a week they do a treatment of egg whites...which the men do as well as it helps to cure baldness! So both Ivan and I will be trying this cool way when we return.....Ill keep ya posted!



That afternoon we spent exploring the grounds and Inca structures of Ollantaytambo which was awesome. We learned many things about the Incas, and seeing their buildings was amazing! We had a nice dinner that evening of their famous Quinoa soup and early to bed. We have had countless steaming bowls of quinoa soup here, as the grain is actually grown in Peru and Bolivia...they put it in EVERYTHING and its just awesome. I never knew there were so many ways to prepare it!!!!



The next morning was day one of the trek. There were 13 of us in the group, and we all kind of kept to ourselves for the first while. We were extremely lucky because the weather was warm and beautiful...as was the hike. It was amazing...although it was the gentle hike on day one, I still found it challenging. We did not train for this in any way, shape or form, and I am not a hiker....but a yogi....so some of the hills certainly had me breathing hard....but I LOVED it. Ivan stuck with me the whole way as we saw a variety of donkeys and llamas, birdies, goats, puppies and flowers. The scenery took my breath away...mountains covered in lush green vegetation...we were surrounded by awe! As we hiked through this amazing piece of earth, we saw the porters who were carrying everyones tents, and gear (6 kilos per person) run past us with their little rubber sandals....their calves were like big gnarly baseballs. It was amazing to watch these little men (I say little, because the tallest was maybe 5¨2 inches tall) run past us in order to set up camp.



Our first stop was for lunch and I KNEW this was the trip for me! Unlike probably 100% of the people who do this trip...I came for the food! I had heard it was wonderful and I was indeed impressed. Sure the landscape was nice....sure I was curious to see Machu Picchu, but really, I came for the FOOD! The sun was beating down and we were tired from the hike...they greeted us with warm juice which was perfect (all the water must be boiled first to purify). Then we washed up and hopped into the little tent they set up with a long dining table...it was just adorable! They served us a lovely hot asparagus soup to start and a delicous main course (if you can believe it, I cant remember exactly what it was!!! There were so many amazing meals). We enjoyed our food immensley and took a little rest afterwards before we began our afternoon hike.

It was a beautiful hike and when we arrived at the site finally, we were again greeted with cheers and claps from the porters (who of course had arrvied hours earlier). Our tents were all set up, along with sleeping bags and mats...it was simply lovely. We had a few hours to relax before tea time .....YES, tea time was 5pm daily, where we would gather in the dining tent and sip on a variety of teas and nibble pop corn, or fresh baked apple and cheese strudles!!!! My kind of camping!!!!! So the guys organized a game of soccer againts the porters. The ladies sat up on the rocks playing with the many dogs and baby chickens that would randomly walk by ( I do not include myself in this sort of behavior, as I am not prone to even petting your dog, let alone some foreign dog who most likely has rabies and fleas). Team GAP really showed those short 5 foot tall porters...who had been carring all of our clothes and gear ALL day, and kicked their ass...Ivan, as per usual was playing all out, slipped and fell and took a huge chunk out of his hand...but happy to say that was the only injury over the four days.....except for my psychologic injuries incured when going to the bathroom.

Uggggg the bathroom....or can I even call it that. If it was just to tinkle then the panoramic bathroom was perfect....a nice little squat in the mountains never hurt anyone, and was much more pleasant. But this particular night I had to do a number 2....I was terrified....but nature was-a-callin and I had no choice but to use the toilets. The smell was enough to gag you....so the concept is basically two foot grips and a hole....you do the math. YOU try aiming your dumps....good fucken luck....I missed...by a long shot....dry heaved twice....but then finally it was over...until I pulled the little cord and a huge splash of water came up from the ground to clear away the evidence....unfortunately splattering my legs and feet.....BARF. Needless to say, this was the WORST part about the trip...but everything else made up for it.

Dinner was scrumptious that evening...three courses each day, starting with a warm soup, and a main course of chicken and sauce with rice or quinoa, it was just splended enough to Enjoy!

New Years Eve in Cuzco Peru

Wow....a hang over at such a high elevation is not the best feeling in the world....two cups of coca tea, and hopefully I will be feeling better soon! I wrote most of this this morning at 9am and then found out that check out time was 9am!!!! WTF kind of place has a check out time of 9am....especially the day after new years eve!



Yesterday when we arrived in Cuzco off the 11hr overnight bus, we realized that our camera was also stolen.....extreme dissappointment ensued. However, we were sooooo lucky, because just the day before our memory card was full, so we bought a new one...so most of the photos are safe! But again a pain in the expensive ass to walk around the city in search of a new one. During our explorations we enjoyed the feel and vibe of Cuzco...its a beautiful city. Much more touristy than anywhere else we have been on this trip, which is kind of nice because it just feels more clean.



We were able to get a room at yet another dive hostal...we had to ask for a heater because apparenly no one heats their flippen buildings here...but no bugs (at least to the visible eye! hahah). We finally found a new camera, after eating a nice lunch...I think we will have lots of luck with good food here. We walked around a bit more and stopped to talk to one of the young ladies offering massages. Now normally I wouldnt even THINK about getting a massage in some foreign country from some girl on the street... BUT my boss did it in the summer and said it was awesome! So Ivan and I haggled the price down to about 10 dollars each for an hour massage.

The gal swiftly walked us down the streets and through a souvenier shop, to the back to a hidden door with long curtains. It was 100% dodgy...but kind of exciting just the same. The flyers that they hand out for the massages are lovely, clean, spa type photos....not exactly what reality handed us. Ivan said it looked like a scene from the show MASH....it was hilarious....two rickety beds beside one another as we were having the ¨couples¨treatment! We stripped down to our skivvies hopped onto the creaking beds and shared a giggle. They put a little heater on and set the mood with soft music....popular artists such as Celene Dion, Rod Stewart and Michael Jackson all on the windpipes....a real Zamfir special. They rubbed us down for just over an hour....my massage was great, but Ivans was pretty weak. I think my girl got bored half way through and got her friend to finish, because I could see through the little peep hole in the bed and saw these little white tennis shoes....then later on they were brown boots....it was pretty funny! we will probably go again after the Inca Trail hike.

That night we walked around the street market, and took in all of the wonderful energy of New Years Even in Cuzco....we snacked on freshed baked apple fritter type treats and enjoyed the vibe...that is until some kid kind of shoved me on one side, and lucky it was cold out so my nipples were a little hard and I felt someone on my other side unzip my breast jacket pocket where our NEW camera was....I caught him just in time and grabbed my boob...I was awe struck...those sneaky little shits. If I wasn´t so shocked I would have liked to have given him a good smack upside the head. But lesson learned...we now carry nothing with us.

We walked around for hours and the scene was AMAZING....like nothing I have ever experienced before. Everyone was buying fireworks and whistles and masks and streamers in bright yellow...which is the Peruvian color for good luck. We were lucky enough to get a seat on the balcony of a place called Nortons Rat...a fun English type pub...it was the best seat in the place overlooking the beautiful main city square. We sipped on Sangria and watched the pure manic chaos below....I can see why fireworks are not legal in Canada because they were going off every two seconds in every which way...one burning chunk even landed right in front of Ivan...there was a band playing, and people hugging and shouting....there was no ¨count down¨like usual, but the extreme celebrations continued for a good hour until it really started raining. We still haddnt eaten dinner so being pleasantly drunk enough to be brave, Ivan ran down to the sqaure to grab us some street meat... lama and potato kababs which were awesome!!!!

I think this was probably one of my favorite New Years Eves ever....just so exciting, vibrant and wonderful...and the best thing is, there didn´t appear to be any dangers or fights...and today, in our hung over state, we strolled by the square to find it very serene and peaceful and totally clean...like the evening before was but a dream.

We are going to relax tonight and grab some dinner, as our new GAP tour begins once again tomorrow, and then we start the Inca Trail hike.....yikes! I am both nervous and excited....probably wont be able to keep you posted for a while (dad dont worry we are great!). Happy Happy New Year to you all...Enjoy!