Friday, December 31, 2010

Arequipa, Peru Dining

Dispite the barnyard type accomadations in Arequipa we enjoyed two evenings and some fabulous meals! Because we were in one of the largest cities, it was quite metro and so offered a variety of dining options. And as Ivan has realized, what really makes a trip for me, is the food! One evening we dined in a gorgeous place called Zig Zag, and tried their house speciality which was a trio of meats cooked on a hot stone. The alpaca was nice, as was the beef..but I have to say the Ostritch was not my cup of tea at all...but it was fun to try.

We had spend the day touring the Santa Catalina Monastary which was gorgeous...like a small city within a city...and the walls were so thick and strong it created a peaceful and serene atmosphere..but the second you stepped outside the walls you were bombarded with city life, horns, whistles, yells etc.

The second tour we did was of the Museum of Andean Sanctuaries, where Jaunita the Ice Princess is. Because I don´t watch the news and therefore am totally ignorant to all of the brutal shit that goes on in this world, I had not heard about her discovery...but Ivan remembered it. She was found in 1995 after being frozen atop an Andean mountain for 500 years. We learned about the Inca ways, and how they would sacrifice young women of 12yrs and babies to the ¨Mountain Gods¨ in order to change the fricken weather pattern. Sounds logical hey....hmmmmm the Vancouver forecast calls for rain...maybe we should sacrifice a child....at least make sure its a bad kid...maybe one from Juvie. All kidding aside, it was fascinating to learn about their beliefs and ways, and to actually see this frozen Princess...albeit quite haunting...her hair was still in perfect condtion as was most of the skin on her arms and hands.

The next day brought us to some absolutely amazing Ceviche....I think the place was called Ceviche Fory For, and it was AWESOME! For those who have not had Ceviche, it is basically a salad of fresh, raw fish that has been marinated in a variety of flavours with citrus...either lemon or lime which actually cooks the fish....this was just amazing. We had one night left at the barn, but unfortunately we realized that Mr. Cermaks wallet had been hoisted. Luckily we didn´t have much in it...but had to do the inevitable...cancel the credit cards and got the heck out of dodge. The bus schedule was proving to be a little more difficult than we anticipated and we needed to get to Cuzco for Jan 1st...but most of the busses were already booked...so we made a quick decision to leave pronto....packed up our shit and headed to the bus station...of course not before getting some fabulous dinner of the most amazing Crepes we have ever had! Crepesimo was the place to go, and we indulged....of course it was happy hour so we HAD to order martinis with our crepes....what goes better????

We hopped on the night bus for a very LONG ride to Cuzco....it was 11hrs, and of course not that comfortable. We heard there was a toilet on board, but we had also heard that you were not allowed to take a dump in it!!! So we made sure we emptied out everything before we hit the road. Happy to say we are safe and sound in Cuzco, Peru and it is a gorgeous city...AND we get to spend New Years here now, instead of on a bus! I am just going to zip up to the room to doll myself up (in the same 1 nice shirt I brought....ugggg I am dying to put on some heals and a slutty top!). Happy New Year to you all....we hope that you have a fabulous evening, and we will be toasting to you all at midnight. We wish you all of the happiness, prosperity, health and well being for 2011 and hope to celebrate with you when we return.

Enjoy!

Thursday, December 30, 2010

Arequipa Peru

After a 9hr bus ride, surviving on cookies and bananas we arrived in Arequipa, Peru.
We had heard that Puno was a shithole...and driving through it confirmed the rumours, which is why we chose Arequipa. We heard it was a lovely, modern city....so Ivan booked what SOUNDED to be like a gorgeous and romantic hotel, hoping to score points...highest recommendation in the book (again, I have realized that my standards to not meet backpacker standards!).

The hotel is indeed beautiful and romantic as you walk through the European style courtyards...it is stunning, and I could feel my excitement building as we walked through the grounds and past the gardens...until we get to our room....my heart sunk...it was like a tree fort...adorable..Yes, charming...Yes....filled with nature...YES! Yes, I like camping....no I don´t like sleeping in a ¨nice hotel¨ with nature. Poor Ivan could tell I was not happy.....I guess thats what you get for marrying a high maintenece wife and bringing her to a third world Country. We booked a whopping 3 nights thinking we would be romantic, and laze about...but the less time I spend there the better. There are bats hanging on the ceiling and there was a trantula in the bath last night.....okay okay, maybe they were just moths and a little spider...but Yuck! I think Ivan will soon be filling out the divorce papers for me...what a whiny wife.

I am rapidly becoming more humble, less healthy and more dirty on this trip. I don´t think I have EVER eaten so much processed food and white bread in my entire life. Every time we go on a bus or a hike or a tour, we have to pack snacks...and while the fruits are lovely, the only other thing always available is cookies...which I am CERTAIN Ivan is just loving...as that man could live on cookies alone. Every hotel we stay at generally includes breakfast...Ivan always eats the rubbery, grey eggs, and I opt for the bread and butter, puffed Quinoa and yogurt. I have to say we have enjoyed some very lovely breads here.

We arrived in the evening and went out for some of the BEST pizza I have had since Croatia....thank god the Lonely Planet is so reliable for food! Los Lenos restaurant is charming, rustic and cozy. The wood burning ovan is in the back corner and creates a beautiful savory aroma and warmth to the thick, old colonial style walls. The pizza was really expensive, but we enjoyed it very much. Early to bed..along with the nature....with dreams of 5 star hotels and a bed I can Enjoy.

Christmas in Bolivia

Christmas in Bolivia was very difficult for me...I knew it would be, but with my work, I was not able to take more time off in January, so had to make the choice....and I can tell you this much...I will not be doing it again. Christmas is one of my most favorite times of year, and I LOVE being with my husband and family around that time. We have so many lovely traditions....I love watching our usual Christmas movies, sipping Champagne and OJay as we linger over gifts and giggles by a roaring fire...Ivan, Mom and Gran sneaking chocolates and goodies, then heading to the kitchen to help mom create a Christmas Masterpiece.

This year, I think I cried all day. We called home, and although it was wonderful to hear the family on the other end, I was heartbroken not to be there. We had returned to La Paz, which was relatively quiet that day....dirty and had a hollow, lonely feeling. That said, our amazing guide Solly organized a lovely Christmas dinner for those left in the group. We had parted ways that morning and this was the last day of the GA tour, so there were only 5 of us left. We went to The Plaza, which was a lovely 5 star hotel for dinner. The view was lovely as was the food...again we cracked a bottle of bubbles and we did have a nice time....but I simply couldn´t escape the feeling of a heavy heart.....if I am honest...it is still with me today.

The next morning we were up bright and early to hop on a 3hr bus ride to Copacabana...we had heard this was a lovely waterside resort type town. We met a lovely Aussie couple on the bus, which made the time fly by. Unfortunately it was pouring rain when we arrived...and our hotel La Cupula..which was apparently the ¨nicest´ there was FREEZING cold. It was a pleasant little place, very clean and...backpacker friendly....but I have realized the standards of these backpacker folks are a LOT lower than mine! We did have a lovely dinner that evening at the cute little restaurant with the Aussie couple...feasting on the local specality of Trout from Lake Titicaca and some lovely wine.

That night was like pure torture to me.....I was freezing cold and needed to have a shower and wash my hair....lucky we had hot water....my wonderful hubby filled some hot water bottles up with boiling water and put them under the covers, as I leapt out of the warm shower and into the bed...lucky my man has the body heat of a furnace and kept me warm all night.

I would say skip Copacabana...its kind of dumpy, and boring....take the rikety ferry over to the Isle del Sol. We did the 4 hr hike from the North to the South, which I was not very happy about, as we only had 4.5 hrs to do it in and I do NOT like to hike on a timeline...I am slow...pokey as my dad and Ivan would say....BUT the hike was beautiful...Lake Titicaca is gorgeous and the scenery was spectacular. As we came to the end of our hike on the South end we passed a bunch of lovely little hotels and restaurants on a cliff above the waters edge....we wished we would have stayed over there....it was quiet and peaceful and somehow seemed a lot cleaner...but alas, our ferry was picking us up and heading back to Copacabana to enjoy a tremendous cheese fondu at the hotel restaurant once again...it was divine!

While we were at the hostal, Ivan decided to look in one of the guide books to see about booking a beautiful hotel at our next destination which was to be Arequipa Peru.

Wednesday, December 29, 2010

Sucre, Bolivia

I am about a week behind in my blog entries, as we are currently in Arequipa Peru...but I must go back and tell you about my favorite city in Bolivia called Sucre! I loved it because all of the buildings were awashed with white, making the city look much cleaner than the others we had seen. It was a quaint town and had a vibrant energy. We arrived later in the afternoon to our palace called the Hotel Independencia, which was gorgeous compared to the last few places we had stayed...I was happy once again...Ivan was in the good books. By normal standards the rooms would have been considered pretty crappy...but the lobby was beautiful and the breakfast just gorgeous...fresh pressed juices daily!

That night we went to a restaurant called Joyride, which was okay..you can tell its a popular touristy type place...but they can´t make a Gin martini worth a damn....Aryn if you are reading this...I look forward to enjoying one of your homemade martinis when I return!!!

The highlight of the trip so far for me was day number 2 in Sucre. We enjoyed a leasurily breakfast, and then joined the group for a city tour with our guide Solly. But it wasn´t just ANY city tour, it was like an eating tour!!! Solly took us to one of the most beautiful markets in the centre of town....everything was vibrant and gorgeous....fruits and veggies I had never seen before. She would grab some of the local fruits and give them to us to enjoy. My head was spinning there were so many things to look at. The meat section was a little gross as everything just sits out all day....chickens with their heads dangling, ready to be chopped off, cow tongue and noses, whole pig heads...I preferred the fruits and veggie section myself! Solly took us to her favorite smoothie station, where we all ordered our favorite combinations. I sipped on a spectacular strawberry and mango smoothie which was silky and fresh.

We strolled, and gazed at the local crafts and down through the European type park, and onto the BEST place ever for yet another Bolivian delight called Saltenas. We went to a well known cafe called Saltenas de Pollo Caldo Santa Clara, where the local nuns hand make these little pillows of love. Basically the Saltenas look like a pizza pop (for lack of a better term) but the pastry is tender and gorgeous, and slightly sweet and the filling consists of tender chicken and minced vegetables....the beef empanadas were also a delight...we went back the next day for more!

After our little snack we carried on to a local chocolate shop for some amazing Expresso....like hot chocolate, but with very little milk....thick, creamy chocolate, served in esspresso cups that was pure indulgence!

The group parted ways after the gourmet town tour and Ivan and I joined the other couple from Australia for COOKING LESSONS!!!!!!! I was so excited, and never would have thought of it, but the Aussie gal Ashley is a foodie just like moi, and she said she always asks wherever she travels if there are cooking schools..and lucky for me, she had asked and the four of us were to partake that evening!!! Not sure the boys were really THAT keen, but we needed a minimum of 4 people so they were pretty much obligated by way of the good husband code.

We went to a place called the Amsterdam Cafe, which is run by a wonderful lady named Linda. She came to Bolivia to help the poor children and has given up her life to do just that...all of the profits from the restaurant go directly to feeding the poor...and they cook for over 150 kiddies each day! She was to interpret for us, as her Chef Navidad (who was born on Christmas) was 110% spanish and the most adorable women we had ever seen. She was as tall as she was wide, and had a smile that just made you want to hug her.

The two ladies lead us back through the market to purchase the groceries needed for our meal. We were going to make a traditional Bolivian Christmas meal (sorry, cant remember the name). Linda also bought some passion fruits (which I had never tasted fresh before) and we all walked back to the little cafe. There we began peeling potatoes, shucking peas, slicing tomatoes and preparing all of the gorgeous veggies as we sipped on fresh passion fruit juice....it was blissful.

After that we all piled into the little kitchen in the back....I have NO idea how anything gets done in there, it was soooo small. The restaurant began to get busy, so then came the chaos...along with some local and delicious red wine. Ashley washed the chickens down as Chris helped stir the veggies over a stove with flames dancing about. Ivan drank wine and took photos as I scrambled to try and make up some sort of recipe....Linda wasn´t really translating anything and little Navidad was just adding a dash of this, a squeeze of that and a lot of this every which way....none of us could keep track...then we would all switch roles....it was so much fun!!!! We got pleasantly drunk and let the meal simmer as we awaited the rest of the group who were going to join us for dinner!

The meal we cooked (in the loosest sence of the term) was AMAZING....I will certainly do my best to recreate it upon my return. We ate and drank more and watched the little local band rock out on the windpipes....it was a perfect Bolivian day!

The final day in Sucre was also very special because it was Christmas Eve. Ivan went rock climbing, and I went shopping with Solly for the day. We were doing a secret Santa that night, upon Ivans suggestion, since we would be missing our usual annual Cermak Christmas party. Then that afternoon we all went out to the BIG market, where everyone threw in a bunch of $$ and we bought treats, toys and clothing for the kids at the local Orphanage. Solly, who should be considered a Saint herself, does this on every trip she makes to Sucre...and so asked if anyone wanted to join her....and of course we all did. We all hopped into cabs with our gifts and got to spend about an hour in one of the most clean and beautiful Orphanages I could imagine. It was still a bit sad to see these wee ones who had been left on doorsteps, or in the streets without a proper mommy and daddy...but there was comfort in knowing they were well cared for. One little guy kept taking Ivans hat off and bonking him on the head....I am sure Ivan deserved it for something..hahaha.

That night we all went to a French restaurant...I cant remember the name and it wasn´t worth going to...overpriced and average food...they nailed the presentation, but that was about all. But we had a nice time exchanging our gifts and Ivan and I sipped bubbly in celebration of our holidays abroad. If you ever go to Bolivia...you must go to Sucre and Enjoy!

Friday, December 24, 2010

Potosi, Bolivia

We had a little sleep in that morning, then got up to go to the market to stock up on fruit and find something for lunch. We had a 5 hour bus ride ahead of us, so we bought some tomatoes, and a huge avacado, mayo and fresh bread to make a little picnic. The fruits and Veggies here are AMAZING!!! Almost everywhere you walk in the streets there are people selling Orange Juice that is freshly squeezed right there. Breakfast has been included in all of our hotels and most all of them serve freshly squeezed juice....OJ, Papaya....amazing. AND the best part is...all of the produce here is completely organic!!!!! The markets are a rougher version of Granville Island of course...but the concept is similar with brightly colored fruits and veggies piled up and waiting for you to eat.



The bus ride was comfortable enough, as we approached a lovely town called Potosi...which is actually the worlds highest city! It was really adorable...and decorated for Christmas which was nice to see finally! Here we went on a tour of the Casa Real de la Moneda (the Royal Mint)....not before snacking on a fresh donut that a little old lady was selling on the street..yum! The tour was very interesting.....we learned that this town was made very rich by the discovery of silver in their big mountain. We learned how they made the silver into coins....which was kind of sad, because the machine they built was powered by mules who would be harnesed in and forced to walk in a circle all day long hauling the big machine. 5,000 of them would die per year due to the physical exhaustion...and then apparently (we heard from our GAP guide)when the donkeys died they would often use humans instead....which in turn makes the entire building haunted as many of them would die as well. The night guards only last a maximum of 6 months as they can hear the haunting cries filled with pain.

We enjoyed a wonderful dinner that evening, and tested yet another local dish...not sure what it was called or what was in it, but the soup came to the table bubbling hot...because they place a large hot stone in the middle....quite the presentation, and delicious! Ivan had dried lama meat and rice which was also beautiful..along with the locally made house wine.

The next day Ivan went on a tour of the mines, which he said was awesome. I opted to relax that morning. Children start working in the mines as young as 12, and their life expectancy is only 45yrs old, due to many deaths from explosions, and breathing in poor air....very sad, but they choose to do this to support their families.

That afternoon we hopped back on a bus-destination Sucre!

Salt Flats, Day 2

Our second day in the Salt flats was very long, but interesting. We had to get up at 4am for breakfast and then hit the road by 430. The Jeep bumped along as I snuggled up into Ivan and drifted off. I may have my order wrong (it was a 12 hour day in the Jeep for god sakes), but I think our first stop was to see one of the lagoons which was dotted with flamingos! I have only ever seen flamingos in the zoo, so it was quite amazing to see them in their natural habitat.

We drove along and stopped to see many interesting sites...the rock tree....a large formation of rock that had been shaped into a tree like structure from the dust and salt blowing against it in the harsh winds. We stopped to view a volcano, as we stood on the petrified lava.... but the highlight of the day was the Fumerals. Which were large craters in the earth with steam and heat flowing out of them....temperature inside could rise to 150 degrees...so we were warned not to run and to walk with caution.....then we came upon a huge basin filled with hot, wildly bubbling grey mud....it was gorgeous to see....and facinating...never seen anything like it! And then my favorite...LUNCH! Yet another wonderful lunch prepared by our cooks....a very typical Bolivian dish made of potatoes, chicken, sausage and onions...spicy and delicous. After lunch we drove a very long way again to see a green lagoon....we were all so tired by that time, and it was soooo windy that many of us stayed inside the jeeps.

We ended off the day at a natural hotspring with gorgeous 30 degree, fresh beautiful water. We relaxed and cleansed our bodies for a while and it felt great (since there are no showers on the salt flat tours). Then we arrived at our shit hole of a hostel....again in the middle of no where....we arrived and this time the divorce papers were looking much more clear! It was really gross....not heated, so it was very cold since we were at such a high elevation, the beds sucked...we shared a room with the only other couple on the trip....which was fine...but we were all in little single beds AND, I had the worse farts I had ever had in my life.....not a good thing when sharing a room with new friends. My only saving grace was that I was tucked into a sleeping bag....so basically just gagged myself all night!

The next morning came, not quick enough and we were off once again. Ivan insisted that the hostel added to the character of the trip. NOT! We stopped to see the red lagoon which was absolutely gorgeous! Apparently the color is red due to a specific type of alge....and this is the alge that the flamingos eat which subsequently gives them their pink color!!!!!

We bounced along gazing at the limited selection of wildlife....llamas and more llamas, these adorable deer like animals, an Emu, a fox and that was about it. There are not too many animals that can survive the high elevation....so lucky for me snakes do not exist up there, and the only spiders they have are insy wincy ones....which I was happy to not see even one.

We finally arrived at our proper hotel in Uyuni where we showered up and went out for some delicious pizza at a place called Minuteman Pizza....it was really excellent...especially with a bottle of the local Bolivian wine.

Everything is extremely affordable here....you could easily do this trip on the cheap with out a tour company...although it is so nice to have everything planned for you...and you dont miss out on anything. The accomidations are around 30 bucks per night...which is high end...and a beautiful meal for 2 with wine will knock you back around 30 or 40 bucks again...lunch for 2..around 10 bucks....the food has been pretty wonderful as well....nice big portions and interesting creations to Enjoy!

Wednesday, December 22, 2010

Salar de Uyuni

So, after our experience on Death Road, we slept well and woke up early the next morning to join our GAP tour. We have never travelled with a tour company before, but had heard GAP was awesome, and we didn´t have time to plan the trip ourselves.



It was a LONG day of travel to Uyuni, by sick, disgusting bus, and the bumpies, rockiest, bounciest train ride ever...thank god for my Ginger pills (natural cure for nausia). We had a brief stop over in Oruro for lunch at a lovely restaurant called Nayjama. It was also recommended in the Lonely Plant book, and their speciality is lamb. So we shared a platter and enjoyed it very much.



We arrived late in Uyuni, but stayed at a lovely little hotel, unfortunately I cannot recall the name, but it was clean and charming. This was the start of our 3 day journey to the Salt Flats-Salar de Uyuni. We were asked to pack a small seperate bag for 2 nights, and we couldn´t bring our big packs. There are 13 of us in the group (from all over the world) and we hopped into one of the Jeeps with 3 others....one being our adorable Gap guide named Sollydad (Solly for short) a La Paz gal who is very passionate about her country.



The jeep bumped along some very rough terrain (can be very dangerous, as they say 13 people die each year from the Jeep tours, so it is important to choose the right company...again another reason to use GAP)...there was so much to look at...and it seemed every hour or so the scenery would change. We arrived at our first stop to see large piles of gleeming white salt, and saw the production line, of how it is ground down and then placed into bags for sale...some of the most pure salt around...of course we had to buy a bag!



Then we drove on...it felt like we were in the middle of nowhere....all your eyes could see is white salt and then the sky...Solly said if you drove stright it would go on for 100 kms. We arrived at an ¨Island¨...in the middle of nowhere called Isla de los Pescadores....it was a big rocky hill covered with cactus, a few lamas and an extrodinary view. It was called an Island, because all of the salt flats used to be part of a prehistoric saltlake, when it dried up, it left behind 12,000 sq km of salt!



We did a little hike to the top for photos and then went back down for a wonderful lunch. We had 2 cooks travelling with us for the 3 day tour, and it was wonderful because we ate very well. Lunch consised of potatoes, veggies, local cheese, tomatoes and LAMA steaks. It was awesome...never tried Lama before..it was a little on the tough side...but very tasty!



After lunch we continued along for an hour or so, and stopped in the middle of no where....all your eye could see was pure white salt. Here is where we took some awesome prospective photos....for example, a miniture Ivan standing in the palm of my hand.... a tiny me sitting on top of my hat....jumping on a banana, and being chased by a dinosaur....again, cant wait to post these photos..they look so fun!

After that we drove for a few hours more, I couldnt imagine where we would be sleeping, because there was nothing in site....but eventually, we came around mountain side to this old dumpy looking village...lamas everywhere, and we parked in front of what looked like an old abandon shit hole....I was more than unimpressed...Ivan could tell....he tried to make jokes.....I imagined the divorce papers. We grabbed our bags and ventured inside to a pleasant surprise....one of the most unique, creative and cool places I have ever been....EVERYTHING was mad of SALT!!!! The ground was pure white corse salt, the tables in the dining hall were huge slabs of gleaming salt..even the cute chandalieres were made of salt.....then we went to our bedrooms and our BEDs were big huge slabs of salt with a mattress on top...all of the walls were salt (we licked them to be sure)....we were in one of the famous Salt hotels....there we enjoyed a typical Bolivian Christmas dish of beef, creamy mashed potatoes with corn in a spicy sauce....it was wonderful!

Another lesson not to judge a book by its cover eh! It was most certainly an experience to remember..although one night was plenty enough to enjoy!

Death Road, Bolivia

Internet access has been a little tough over these past few days, so not much time to write. The second day we were in La Paz, Ivan convinced me to go mountain biking.....not JUST mountain biking, but biking down the ¨Most Dangerous Road in the World¨ !!!! Now, I am not much of a biker at all, in fact, I have only really ridden a bike 2 or 3 times in the last 15 years...and Ivan always makes fun of me because I am timid and go very slow. Not sure WTF got into me on that day...probably the fact that I didn´t want to spend the entire day in La Paz alone....and we talked to a tour agency and they assured me that was just the marketing name for the road, and it USED to be the most dangerous road in the world because they allowed traffic on it....which they no longer do (yeh right)....I can´t wait to post the photos.

The write up in the lonely planet says it best ¨Flanked by epic scenery and punctuated with waterfalls, this road plunges over 3000m in 80km. It has approx. 100 fatalities per year!!!¨ The road is very narrow, and has a sheer drop on one side...so not much room for passing vehicles..when they allowed traffic in the past and if the conditions were poor (such as the rainy season) cars could not pass each other so one would be forced off the side of the road...as you can quickly see with all of the crosses and shrines peppering the sides of the trail.

We started our day at 8am, picked up by the local company we had chosen called Mayhem. They are a newer company, but all of the companies do the same tours and offer the same experience, the only difference being the price (not a very good sales feature)! That said, when we were picked up in the little shit van, I was feeling a little nervous. Our little Bolivian tour guide Omar spoke English okay, and was pretty cute. They said breakfast was included, but I didn´t see how, because we immediately started our drive out of town.

They played some fun music, as we past hundreds of dogs, people and some gorgeous scenery. We stopped to let one of the guys out at some random place and carried on...stopped again and Omar jumped out and bought some bananas ...breakfast???? Finally after about an hour and a bit, we arrived at the starting point. We were outfitted with full gear, including pants, jackets, knee and elbow pads, and a huge helmet....not sure if I felt safer or worse at that point.

We start the ride....the best thing about this adventure is that it is mostly down hill...so barely any need to pedal...but you are basically riding your breaks the whole time....they cautioned not to squeeze the breaks too hard, as they are sensitive and will stop you immediately. So off we go...the view is spectacular...we are surrounded by mountains...the road is smooth and paved, there is so much to look at and admire as we ride for about 30mins...I am in awe and so grateful my husband convinced me to partake. SWOOOSH....a huge red truck passes me, and I swear it touched my jacket....I don´t waver, as I know I will fall....my heart leaps into my ear, my head pounds, and I try to catch my breath....I am still alive!

We stop FINALLY for breakfast...the aformentioned bananas, yoghurt and a chocolate bar...okay...guess you need the chocolate for the energy. Ivan comments on my near death experience..he said it looked like the truck was going right towards me...he was so proud I didn´t fall. I am feeling great, like a real Laura Croft bad ass...I am a hard core biker chick....then we see a man from another tour group walk by with blood pouring out of his face with a cloth and one of the guides assisting him....his group wasnt sure what happened...they turned the corner and found him lying still across the road...bleeding and not moving....OMG. Ivan quickly points out that the fellow was Asian, and sometimes not the best drivers....I sort of feel better.

We go a little further for about 10mins and stop for a snack....okay this is my kind of trip! hahaha. We slice up some fresh avacado, mistery meat and mayo on fresh buns and snack away....delish. But something has changed....the scenerey is still gorgeous...but the road is no longer paved...but a rough and tumble, rocky, bumpy path. Oh....NOW we are on DEATH road (as it is also called). The previous 40mins was just the road to get us there!

So off we go, I quickly fall into last place...but I am not ashamed....I don´t want to die...and it was so bumpy and rocky my boobs almost hit my chin...thank god for the industrial strength sports bra I bought from MEC!!! A must for active girls with big knockers!

The ride was still spectacular...we passed waterfalls, and flowers and stopped often to take photos...then as I was turning a corner a bright blue van was coming towards me....I wasn´t expecting oncoming traffic, so panicked, squeezed the breaks tight and kinda flipped over my handle bars, in a very ungraceful bail....if Ivan wasnt so worried, he probably would have laughed his ass off. Thank god for all of the gear, because I was just fine...unscathed...except for my hand (and my ego)....it turned a bit purple in one spot, but otherwise all was well.

We finished the ride and I was extremely proud of myself....all in one piece, mostly unharmed and some beautiful scenery along the way....we highly recommend this tour company, as we liked to support the locals, AND our protective gear was better than any of the others!

The ride ended in the tropical part of Boliva with big palm trees and hot sun...we were treated to a buffet lunch and some down time by a pool and then the long journey back to the hotel. Along the journey back, we all got lollypops, which seemed to finish everything off perfectly. I cant remember the last time I had a lollypop...it reminded me of going to the dentist....like a little reward. A fear busting experience I really did Enjoy!

Wednesday, December 15, 2010

La Paz, Bolivia

Wow! is all I can say. We arrrived in La Paz Bolivia yesterday, late afternoon after many many hours of flying. We flew LAN air which was fabulous. Lots of leg room, reclining seats, yummy food a huge selection of movies and video games. They also serve wine with the meals (yes for free)...however, we did not indulge simply because we had heard of the extreme altitude change from sea level to 1200ft above. The recommendations from our bible (lonely planet) were not to drink, because the air is so thin, that people can easily get altitude sickness. Most people take a gradual approach, before heading to La Paz...but nope...not us....just fly straight there!

Almost immediately after stepping off the plane I could feel my heart speed up. The airport was small and quite adorable. We gathered our luggage and hopped into a taxi...English is hard to come by here! The taxi ride was beautiful, as we drove along the highway, situated on a ridge overlooking the huge capital city of La Paz. I can´t even describe it, as I have never seen anything quite like it....almost like a giant collosium, this city has sunk into the middle, with sharp drops all around. All of the homes and buildings are redish brown and jammed closely together.

Driving in La Paz is nothing short of psycho...the highway was a gentle introduction, as we drove along a truck in front of us lost part of his load of toilet paper..... packages and packages flew off the back of the truck and onto the highway, causing the cars to swerve, honk and slow down. Our taxi driver was kind enough to actually stop for the poor man who had to run across the highway to gather up his shit tickets.

Once we got into the city my brain went nutz. Cars and busses, trucks, bikes and humans all fighting for realestate. Horns and honks become the municipal music, with zero disregard for your fellow driver. Anything and everything goes....we almost crashed about 12 times on the short drive to our hotel. But the traffic is so disorganized, no one is moving that fast.

We arrived at our pleasant little 3 star hotel called Las Brisas. Certainly not the Ritz, but charming and quaint enough for us. We felt safe, and the rooms were clean...private bathrooms with a hot shower....works for me. Now I knew this wasn´t going to be a typical Heather trip of ¨cocktails and heals¨ so I was fully prepared for the accomidation style. I was NOT however, prepared for the culture shock.

It is our second day here and we are still feeling the affects of the altitude. We read that we were supposed to take some sort of drugs a few weeks before to help our systems adjust....but I am proud to say we took zero precautions and both feel pretty good. We have noticed that we are a little lightheaded, especially when walking up hills and stairs...poor fat people...how the heck do they survive with pounding hearts and lack of breath...now I know what it feels like!

I feel like I might have whiplash after this trip, as there is SOOOOO much to look at. Everywhere you look there is a gorgeous photo opportunity. The big ladies with their long black braids, wearing colorful skirts and shawls, with their brightly colored sacks over their shoulders. Each one wearing (what Ivan and I call ) a bolero hat....They are a treasure to look at. There are markets everywhere....they sell everything you can think of, from light bulbs and toilets to mangos and lama featuses (the most interesting, yet sick, I would say).

We ate dinner at a restaurant called 100% Natural, last night and the food was pretty good. Huge portions...Ivan and I split a platter of German style sausage, mustardy cabbage, and steamed veggies all for a whopping $6! Food is cheap here....not the greatest you have ever had...but plentyful and cheap. We had a very typical Bolivian lunch today, in this random hole in the wall called Lanza (recommended by Lonely Planet). It was so fun as we had NO idea how or what to order...but we were happy just being with the locals. They started with a little salad, then followed with a huge bowl of noodle soup that was quite tasty, then the main course was rice with a fried chicken cutlet. The kitchen was open so you could see the whole family busy at work...even the little 5 year old girl who was helping prepare the meals...so cute.

We had a long day of walking, and now we are going to buy a few snaks and things for our trip to the Salt Flats on Friday. And of course we are going to scope out somewhere yummy for dinner. Hope you all are well...we miss you lots!

Enjoy!

Wednesday, December 8, 2010

Poached Salmon and Happy Holidays!

Well, the time has come! I leave tomorrow morning for the start of my 1 month long journey. I fly to Toronto for a few days of work and fun with my bro. And then off to discover Bolivia and Peru with my handsom hubby!!!! I am so excited...and a little nervous, because I have never backpacked for a month before. I guess I did 3 weeks in Greece when I was younger....but I am thrilled. All of my clothes fit nicely into my pack, and I have absolutely zero expectations...the bliss of being completely geographically ignorant, is that I have no idea what to expect!

So I made a nice healthy dinner to send us off....sooo easy, you must try it. My mom used to poach salmon, and it is such a delicious way to eat fish.

Simmer a pan half full of broth, lemon slices, white wine and pepper for a few minutes. Pop the fish fillets in and poach for about 6 mins (depending on the thickness etc). Whip up a little aioli of mayo, lemon juice, lemon zest, capers, pepper and a few shavings of garlic and plop on top of the fish....delish!!!!

My beloved FOOD WITH A SIDE OF LIFE fans, I will be on hiatus until mid January...so don't abandon me....I promise to return with lots of stories and fun things to share. Happy Holidays and Merry Christmas...enjoy each day with your families and loved ones, eat lots of decadent foods, sip bubbles and above all ENJOY!

Sunday, December 5, 2010

Family

I feel so lucky to have the family that I do! I was feeling pretty sad that we were going to be missing Christmas this year...and mom could tell, so her and dad hopped on a plane to spend a pre-Christmas with us!!!

We had a wonderful time! I just love being with my family....and I am so blessed that my husband enjoys them, and they enjoy my husband...so now the term "family" includes one more.

We celebrated Christmas on Saturday. We slept in a little, and woke up to our little tree brimming with brightly colored gifts. Santa even filled our stockings.....it was a lot of fun. We got spoiled as usual, and we were lucky because we got quite a few practical gifts for our trip. But my favorite gift was these AMAZING martini glasses from this random place mom and dad stopped for gas in California called Harris Ranch...they said it was so random, because mom decided to go for a walk and check out the area and stumbled upon this Oasis. They ended up staying to eat a fabulous meal, and mom went to check out the gift shop and she saw these amazing Christmas Martini glasses. I LOVE them....and we made good use of them by filling them with Martini's during happy hour on Saturday!

I made smoked salmon crepes with cream cheese and avocado for brunch, which were lovely. Then we all went for a massage...mom and I went for a long walk and picked up groceries to prep a wonderful Christmas dinner together. I enjoy cooking with my mom....sipping martinis while the boys watch hockey, or some crappy sports station...it was wonderful.

I really feel blessed that I have such a loving family, because I know many others are not so fortunate. I don't take it for granted, and only wish we all lived closer....perhaps one day.

Ivan and I are off on our trip this week....so only a few more blogs, and then I will have to retire until January...unless of course, I end up at a computer in Bolivia!

If you haven't planned it already...be sure you spend some time with your family this holiday season...even if you normally don't....make their day....drop by, give a hug and enjoy!

Friday, December 3, 2010

Federico's Supper Club

I was born in the wrong Era. I may have mentioned this before, but I really feel like I should have been raised in the 50s. I absolutely love seeing those old Marilyn Monroe movies with the glamourous dresses, Audrey Hepburn with her pretty gloves and upswept hairdo...I love the old school music and polite charm. It just seemed like such a fun, innocent and fabulous time to live. No one dressed in sweat pants or ripped jeans, instead everyone seemed to take such pride in their appearances.

Going to a hot party back then, meant that you might go to a big hall and listen to a live band...or you would attend the school sock hop for some good clean fun. I LOVE dancing...but not the type that exists today...you know, the grinding of the private parts on the dance floor, or the rave dancing....nope, thats just not for me. I love to jive dance....swing to Big Band music...it is one of my most favorite things to do.

I know there are lots of other folks out there who like this sort of fun too...and you will find it at one of my favorite places in Vancouver called Federico's Supper Club on commercial drive! It is always packed...you usually have to make a reservation and it is utra cheesy, but so much fun! We took my parents there last night, and unfortunately the place was packed with two large office Christmas parties, so we were stuck in a little table in the back corner....which was fine because it was a bit quieter. There was lovely dinner music being played by a live band until around 9:30 and then the star...the sexy little Federico comes on stage to sing his heart out! He sings EVERYTHING...from Elvis to Black Eyed Peas....it was so much fun. We ate their four course meal (which you must for the month of December). And it was pretty good...a little pricy..but the food was enjoyable.

You really go to Federicos for the fun and experience...the old school dine and dance. A perfect idea for an office party...or a birthday party (I celebrated my 30th here)...or just for a fun Saturday night. The key is to ensure you go with a group of people who like to dance...Ivan's and my dad weren't all that keen at first...but we did get up and dance until we lost our breath!

Please go to this place for some good, old fashion fun and Enjoy!

Tuesday, November 30, 2010

Yay Christmas!

Getting into the Christmas spirit is easy as pie for moi, because it is one of my most favorite times of year! I adore Christmas songs...the beautifully decorated stores and homes...twinkly lights and the sparkly feeling in the air.

I LOVE it! I don't even mind Christmas shopping, because we don't go crazy, but I do enjoy the bustle of the folks scurrying along to pick out the perfect gift. I also don't leave things until last minute, so I can enjoy my experience.

Growing up was the BEST, because we would sometimes celebrate two Christmases. One in Calgary with Gran and Gramps and every other year we would go to Winnipeg to visit moms family. Both were wonderful...but quite opposite. Calgary was a bit reserved...quiet, peaceful and nice. Winnipeg was crazy fun...my mom has a huge family and they all live close to each other and get together over the holidays. Boxing day there would be about 10 open houses...and the crew would start at one home and fill themselves with delectable little appies, and a spirit or two...then on to the next house...there must have been 100 or so folks. Everyone would move at their own pace so no ones home ever got too crowded...it was so exciting. We always remembered which house had the best pop, food, and goodie selection. It was wonderful.

My cousins lived out in rural Winnipeg and had a lot of land AND a snowmobile! Back then, Mark, Kristyn, Shayne and I would ALL fit on at once, and we would drive around singing Christmas carols at the top of our lungs as we gazed up at the stars.

The other fun thing about celebrating Christmas with a big group in Winnipeg was the singing. Mom's family LOVES to sing...none of them are good...but damn do they have fun! Since I love singing myself, it was always so exciting to flip through page after page of carols, singing and laughing all night.

Whether we celebrated Christmas in Calgary or in Winnipeg, it was always wonderful. There was always a warm crackling fire, wonderful goodies and treats, music and a lota love. Yes, there were certainly gifts...but that is not what I remember or love most....in fact I don't even remember most of the things I have received...but I just remember the feeling of anticipation...and all of the wonderful traditions.

When we were in Calgary, we got into the tradition of watching all of the Christmas cartoons and movies we had taped over the years....Clay Rudolph, Mickeys Christmas Carol, Grinch, Frosty, Cabbage Patch Christmas, and later on Home Alone...and a few others. Shaynee and I would always sleep in the same bed on Christmas Eve and try to stay up talking and dreaming about what delights the next day would bring. We diligently put out cookies and milk for Santa (still do), and mom and dad tucked us in..hoping that we wouldn't sneak downstairs.

I remember that wonderfully amazing feeling the next morning...Shayne and I would wake up early and sneak down stairs and the floor would be brimming with treasures...our giant stockings bursting at the seams...it was so exciting. We would try to just look at everything and wait...but we couldn't help it and soon we would be running upstairs to wake mom and dad.

One Christmas Eve tradition that I loved, was when we were in Winnipeg, Uncle Mel would always read "T'was the Night Before Christmas" out of an old children's book. He always read it with such enthusiasm...and it just gave you that cozy, wonderful feeling of joy and love.

I think traditions are important and give people something to look forward to...and really helps to create wonderful memories. Ivan and I have started some of our own traditions...an annual party, decorating the tree together as we sip champagne, celebrating with both of our families... That is why this year, I am bittersweet. I hate that word, because it reminds me of a cheesy Harlequin book...but it is the only accurate term I can use to describe my feelings at this very moment. Ivan and I are leaving for a one month journey to Peru and Bolivia....but we are going over Christmas and New Years....so all traditions are out the window.

However, we ARE going away for a month!!!! How exciting....and to make this even more exciting...my wonderful parents booked tickets and will be here tomorrow morning to celebrate an early Christmas!!!!! I am so excited...I have planned out the whole 5 days and we will be eating a nice family Christmas dinner this weekend. Then next week I go to Toronto to see baby brother and have a little celebration with him as well!!!!

What more could a girl ask for...off to bed I go...sweet dreams and enjoy!

Monday, November 29, 2010

Fire and Water

It's just not worth it....you know...not making an effort to go to a restaurant you really want to, and instead eating where it is convenient. I am staying at the Marriott hotel in Victoria on business and it is pissing rain out...cold and dark. Granted, I can no longer drive at night, because my vision is crap in the dark...and I was too cold to walk anywhere.

Fire and Water is the name of the restaurant in the Marriott and the atmosphere is charming...it has a nice cozy feeling, with the large fireplace...and right now it is all decorated for Christmas, making the room feel even more lovely.

I have eaten here a few times (due mainly to laziness at the end of my work day...and the fact that I simply can't see at night) and have consistently been underwhelmed. Everything is just okay. However, the price point says it should be excellent. One glass of wine and an average dinner and the tab is over $40. Tonight I ordered their Fisherman's Hot Pot....which sounded much better than it was. Meant to be like a Cioppino, this version was quite bland and all of the fish seemed to be on the dry side. The broth could have used some real inventiveness...some fresh herbs perhaps....a zing, a zap....just something damn it.

I really wanted to try Brasserie L'ecole or any one of the myriad other wonderful dining establishments in Victoria...but alas...I had a full day...I am tired, and now full...with a crappy aftertaste of cardboard and bandaids (for some reason..not sure).

I am sitting by a window watching the leaves swirl around on the ground, and the branches of the trees shiver and shake...perhaps I made a good choice to stay put after all. I suppose sometimes comfort can triumph good food??? I hate myself for even writing that...but alas...tonight, its true.

Now I just have to make my way back upstairs to my cozy room...watch a little tube, dream a little dream and enjoy.

Sunday, November 28, 2010

Natural Skin Care

As I have mentioned previously, I was pissed off with my long time skin-care product Decleor because they changed the packaging....so I went to the Origins counter to seek new horizons. I like the concept of Origins as all of their products are natural and not filled with a bunch of preservatives/chemicals and shit.... I was in search of a daily moisturizer with an SPF, that I can toss into my travel bag (or "Possible Kit", as my parents call it...because when you have your kit...ANYTHING is possible...hahah don't you love it!).

I found the perfect thing called VitaZing. It has a slight tint that creates a nice even skin tone, and it feels great...not greasy or heavy. I LOVE it! it is a small 50ml tube...but you don't need much...but it cost almost $50 which I thought was rather expensive. Decleor is also a natural based beauty line...but at amazingly fair prices.

So I think the VitaZing will be my new summer and travel cream..and the Decleor will be my regular daily cream.

Either way...you can't go wrong with these product lines. Also just a little tip...most of the skin care lines in the Bay and Holt Renfrew will give you a free mini facial to help asses the products that are right for you....it's a really nice little treat during your day...just be sure you don't have to go somewhere special afterwards....OR pop by one of the make-up counters for a free make-over. You usually just have to purchase one product and you can get your holiday make-up done for free!!!!

I wish you happy, healthy, glowing skin....get your freebies and enjoy!