I am about a week behind in my blog entries, as we are currently in Arequipa Peru...but I must go back and tell you about my favorite city in Bolivia called Sucre! I loved it because all of the buildings were awashed with white, making the city look much cleaner than the others we had seen. It was a quaint town and had a vibrant energy. We arrived later in the afternoon to our palace called the Hotel Independencia, which was gorgeous compared to the last few places we had stayed...I was happy once again...Ivan was in the good books. By normal standards the rooms would have been considered pretty crappy...but the lobby was beautiful and the breakfast just gorgeous...fresh pressed juices daily!
That night we went to a restaurant called Joyride, which was okay..you can tell its a popular touristy type place...but they can´t make a Gin martini worth a damn....Aryn if you are reading this...I look forward to enjoying one of your homemade martinis when I return!!!
The highlight of the trip so far for me was day number 2 in Sucre. We enjoyed a leasurily breakfast, and then joined the group for a city tour with our guide Solly. But it wasn´t just ANY city tour, it was like an eating tour!!! Solly took us to one of the most beautiful markets in the centre of town....everything was vibrant and gorgeous....fruits and veggies I had never seen before. She would grab some of the local fruits and give them to us to enjoy. My head was spinning there were so many things to look at. The meat section was a little gross as everything just sits out all day....chickens with their heads dangling, ready to be chopped off, cow tongue and noses, whole pig heads...I preferred the fruits and veggie section myself! Solly took us to her favorite smoothie station, where we all ordered our favorite combinations. I sipped on a spectacular strawberry and mango smoothie which was silky and fresh.
We strolled, and gazed at the local crafts and down through the European type park, and onto the BEST place ever for yet another Bolivian delight called Saltenas. We went to a well known cafe called Saltenas de Pollo Caldo Santa Clara, where the local nuns hand make these little pillows of love. Basically the Saltenas look like a pizza pop (for lack of a better term) but the pastry is tender and gorgeous, and slightly sweet and the filling consists of tender chicken and minced vegetables....the beef empanadas were also a delight...we went back the next day for more!
After our little snack we carried on to a local chocolate shop for some amazing Expresso....like hot chocolate, but with very little milk....thick, creamy chocolate, served in esspresso cups that was pure indulgence!
The group parted ways after the gourmet town tour and Ivan and I joined the other couple from Australia for COOKING LESSONS!!!!!!! I was so excited, and never would have thought of it, but the Aussie gal Ashley is a foodie just like moi, and she said she always asks wherever she travels if there are cooking schools..and lucky for me, she had asked and the four of us were to partake that evening!!! Not sure the boys were really THAT keen, but we needed a minimum of 4 people so they were pretty much obligated by way of the good husband code.
We went to a place called the Amsterdam Cafe, which is run by a wonderful lady named Linda. She came to Bolivia to help the poor children and has given up her life to do just that...all of the profits from the restaurant go directly to feeding the poor...and they cook for over 150 kiddies each day! She was to interpret for us, as her Chef Navidad (who was born on Christmas) was 110% spanish and the most adorable women we had ever seen. She was as tall as she was wide, and had a smile that just made you want to hug her.
The two ladies lead us back through the market to purchase the groceries needed for our meal. We were going to make a traditional Bolivian Christmas meal (sorry, cant remember the name). Linda also bought some passion fruits (which I had never tasted fresh before) and we all walked back to the little cafe. There we began peeling potatoes, shucking peas, slicing tomatoes and preparing all of the gorgeous veggies as we sipped on fresh passion fruit juice....it was blissful.
After that we all piled into the little kitchen in the back....I have NO idea how anything gets done in there, it was soooo small. The restaurant began to get busy, so then came the chaos...along with some local and delicious red wine. Ashley washed the chickens down as Chris helped stir the veggies over a stove with flames dancing about. Ivan drank wine and took photos as I scrambled to try and make up some sort of recipe....Linda wasn´t really translating anything and little Navidad was just adding a dash of this, a squeeze of that and a lot of this every which way....none of us could keep track...then we would all switch roles....it was so much fun!!!! We got pleasantly drunk and let the meal simmer as we awaited the rest of the group who were going to join us for dinner!
The meal we cooked (in the loosest sence of the term) was AMAZING....I will certainly do my best to recreate it upon my return. We ate and drank more and watched the little local band rock out on the windpipes....it was a perfect Bolivian day!
The final day in Sucre was also very special because it was Christmas Eve. Ivan went rock climbing, and I went shopping with Solly for the day. We were doing a secret Santa that night, upon Ivans suggestion, since we would be missing our usual annual Cermak Christmas party. Then that afternoon we all went out to the BIG market, where everyone threw in a bunch of $$ and we bought treats, toys and clothing for the kids at the local Orphanage. Solly, who should be considered a Saint herself, does this on every trip she makes to Sucre...and so asked if anyone wanted to join her....and of course we all did. We all hopped into cabs with our gifts and got to spend about an hour in one of the most clean and beautiful Orphanages I could imagine. It was still a bit sad to see these wee ones who had been left on doorsteps, or in the streets without a proper mommy and daddy...but there was comfort in knowing they were well cared for. One little guy kept taking Ivans hat off and bonking him on the head....I am sure Ivan deserved it for something..hahaha.
That night we all went to a French restaurant...I cant remember the name and it wasn´t worth going to...overpriced and average food...they nailed the presentation, but that was about all. But we had a nice time exchanging our gifts and Ivan and I sipped bubbly in celebration of our holidays abroad. If you ever go to Bolivia...you must go to Sucre and Enjoy!
Showing posts with label Bolivia. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Bolivia. Show all posts
Wednesday, December 29, 2010
Friday, December 24, 2010
Salt Flats, Day 2
Our second day in the Salt flats was very long, but interesting. We had to get up at 4am for breakfast and then hit the road by 430. The Jeep bumped along as I snuggled up into Ivan and drifted off. I may have my order wrong (it was a 12 hour day in the Jeep for god sakes), but I think our first stop was to see one of the lagoons which was dotted with flamingos! I have only ever seen flamingos in the zoo, so it was quite amazing to see them in their natural habitat.
We drove along and stopped to see many interesting sites...the rock tree....a large formation of rock that had been shaped into a tree like structure from the dust and salt blowing against it in the harsh winds. We stopped to view a volcano, as we stood on the petrified lava.... but the highlight of the day was the Fumerals. Which were large craters in the earth with steam and heat flowing out of them....temperature inside could rise to 150 degrees...so we were warned not to run and to walk with caution.....then we came upon a huge basin filled with hot, wildly bubbling grey mud....it was gorgeous to see....and facinating...never seen anything like it! And then my favorite...LUNCH! Yet another wonderful lunch prepared by our cooks....a very typical Bolivian dish made of potatoes, chicken, sausage and onions...spicy and delicous. After lunch we drove a very long way again to see a green lagoon....we were all so tired by that time, and it was soooo windy that many of us stayed inside the jeeps.
We ended off the day at a natural hotspring with gorgeous 30 degree, fresh beautiful water. We relaxed and cleansed our bodies for a while and it felt great (since there are no showers on the salt flat tours). Then we arrived at our shit hole of a hostel....again in the middle of no where....we arrived and this time the divorce papers were looking much more clear! It was really gross....not heated, so it was very cold since we were at such a high elevation, the beds sucked...we shared a room with the only other couple on the trip....which was fine...but we were all in little single beds AND, I had the worse farts I had ever had in my life.....not a good thing when sharing a room with new friends. My only saving grace was that I was tucked into a sleeping bag....so basically just gagged myself all night!
The next morning came, not quick enough and we were off once again. Ivan insisted that the hostel added to the character of the trip. NOT! We stopped to see the red lagoon which was absolutely gorgeous! Apparently the color is red due to a specific type of alge....and this is the alge that the flamingos eat which subsequently gives them their pink color!!!!!
We bounced along gazing at the limited selection of wildlife....llamas and more llamas, these adorable deer like animals, an Emu, a fox and that was about it. There are not too many animals that can survive the high elevation....so lucky for me snakes do not exist up there, and the only spiders they have are insy wincy ones....which I was happy to not see even one.
We finally arrived at our proper hotel in Uyuni where we showered up and went out for some delicious pizza at a place called Minuteman Pizza....it was really excellent...especially with a bottle of the local Bolivian wine.
Everything is extremely affordable here....you could easily do this trip on the cheap with out a tour company...although it is so nice to have everything planned for you...and you dont miss out on anything. The accomidations are around 30 bucks per night...which is high end...and a beautiful meal for 2 with wine will knock you back around 30 or 40 bucks again...lunch for 2..around 10 bucks....the food has been pretty wonderful as well....nice big portions and interesting creations to Enjoy!
We drove along and stopped to see many interesting sites...the rock tree....a large formation of rock that had been shaped into a tree like structure from the dust and salt blowing against it in the harsh winds. We stopped to view a volcano, as we stood on the petrified lava.... but the highlight of the day was the Fumerals. Which were large craters in the earth with steam and heat flowing out of them....temperature inside could rise to 150 degrees...so we were warned not to run and to walk with caution.....then we came upon a huge basin filled with hot, wildly bubbling grey mud....it was gorgeous to see....and facinating...never seen anything like it! And then my favorite...LUNCH! Yet another wonderful lunch prepared by our cooks....a very typical Bolivian dish made of potatoes, chicken, sausage and onions...spicy and delicous. After lunch we drove a very long way again to see a green lagoon....we were all so tired by that time, and it was soooo windy that many of us stayed inside the jeeps.
We ended off the day at a natural hotspring with gorgeous 30 degree, fresh beautiful water. We relaxed and cleansed our bodies for a while and it felt great (since there are no showers on the salt flat tours). Then we arrived at our shit hole of a hostel....again in the middle of no where....we arrived and this time the divorce papers were looking much more clear! It was really gross....not heated, so it was very cold since we were at such a high elevation, the beds sucked...we shared a room with the only other couple on the trip....which was fine...but we were all in little single beds AND, I had the worse farts I had ever had in my life.....not a good thing when sharing a room with new friends. My only saving grace was that I was tucked into a sleeping bag....so basically just gagged myself all night!
The next morning came, not quick enough and we were off once again. Ivan insisted that the hostel added to the character of the trip. NOT! We stopped to see the red lagoon which was absolutely gorgeous! Apparently the color is red due to a specific type of alge....and this is the alge that the flamingos eat which subsequently gives them their pink color!!!!!
We bounced along gazing at the limited selection of wildlife....llamas and more llamas, these adorable deer like animals, an Emu, a fox and that was about it. There are not too many animals that can survive the high elevation....so lucky for me snakes do not exist up there, and the only spiders they have are insy wincy ones....which I was happy to not see even one.
We finally arrived at our proper hotel in Uyuni where we showered up and went out for some delicious pizza at a place called Minuteman Pizza....it was really excellent...especially with a bottle of the local Bolivian wine.
Everything is extremely affordable here....you could easily do this trip on the cheap with out a tour company...although it is so nice to have everything planned for you...and you dont miss out on anything. The accomidations are around 30 bucks per night...which is high end...and a beautiful meal for 2 with wine will knock you back around 30 or 40 bucks again...lunch for 2..around 10 bucks....the food has been pretty wonderful as well....nice big portions and interesting creations to Enjoy!
Wednesday, December 22, 2010
Salar de Uyuni
So, after our experience on Death Road, we slept well and woke up early the next morning to join our GAP tour. We have never travelled with a tour company before, but had heard GAP was awesome, and we didn´t have time to plan the trip ourselves.
It was a LONG day of travel to Uyuni, by sick, disgusting bus, and the bumpies, rockiest, bounciest train ride ever...thank god for my Ginger pills (natural cure for nausia). We had a brief stop over in Oruro for lunch at a lovely restaurant called Nayjama. It was also recommended in the Lonely Plant book, and their speciality is lamb. So we shared a platter and enjoyed it very much.
We arrived late in Uyuni, but stayed at a lovely little hotel, unfortunately I cannot recall the name, but it was clean and charming. This was the start of our 3 day journey to the Salt Flats-Salar de Uyuni. We were asked to pack a small seperate bag for 2 nights, and we couldn´t bring our big packs. There are 13 of us in the group (from all over the world) and we hopped into one of the Jeeps with 3 others....one being our adorable Gap guide named Sollydad (Solly for short) a La Paz gal who is very passionate about her country.
The jeep bumped along some very rough terrain (can be very dangerous, as they say 13 people die each year from the Jeep tours, so it is important to choose the right company...again another reason to use GAP)...there was so much to look at...and it seemed every hour or so the scenery would change. We arrived at our first stop to see large piles of gleeming white salt, and saw the production line, of how it is ground down and then placed into bags for sale...some of the most pure salt around...of course we had to buy a bag!
Then we drove on...it felt like we were in the middle of nowhere....all your eyes could see is white salt and then the sky...Solly said if you drove stright it would go on for 100 kms. We arrived at an ¨Island¨...in the middle of nowhere called Isla de los Pescadores....it was a big rocky hill covered with cactus, a few lamas and an extrodinary view. It was called an Island, because all of the salt flats used to be part of a prehistoric saltlake, when it dried up, it left behind 12,000 sq km of salt!
We did a little hike to the top for photos and then went back down for a wonderful lunch. We had 2 cooks travelling with us for the 3 day tour, and it was wonderful because we ate very well. Lunch consised of potatoes, veggies, local cheese, tomatoes and LAMA steaks. It was awesome...never tried Lama before..it was a little on the tough side...but very tasty!
After lunch we continued along for an hour or so, and stopped in the middle of no where....all your eye could see was pure white salt. Here is where we took some awesome prospective photos....for example, a miniture Ivan standing in the palm of my hand.... a tiny me sitting on top of my hat....jumping on a banana, and being chased by a dinosaur....again, cant wait to post these photos..they look so fun!
After that we drove for a few hours more, I couldnt imagine where we would be sleeping, because there was nothing in site....but eventually, we came around mountain side to this old dumpy looking village...lamas everywhere, and we parked in front of what looked like an old abandon shit hole....I was more than unimpressed...Ivan could tell....he tried to make jokes.....I imagined the divorce papers. We grabbed our bags and ventured inside to a pleasant surprise....one of the most unique, creative and cool places I have ever been....EVERYTHING was mad of SALT!!!! The ground was pure white corse salt, the tables in the dining hall were huge slabs of gleaming salt..even the cute chandalieres were made of salt.....then we went to our bedrooms and our BEDs were big huge slabs of salt with a mattress on top...all of the walls were salt (we licked them to be sure)....we were in one of the famous Salt hotels....there we enjoyed a typical Bolivian Christmas dish of beef, creamy mashed potatoes with corn in a spicy sauce....it was wonderful!
Another lesson not to judge a book by its cover eh! It was most certainly an experience to remember..although one night was plenty enough to enjoy!
It was a LONG day of travel to Uyuni, by sick, disgusting bus, and the bumpies, rockiest, bounciest train ride ever...thank god for my Ginger pills (natural cure for nausia). We had a brief stop over in Oruro for lunch at a lovely restaurant called Nayjama. It was also recommended in the Lonely Plant book, and their speciality is lamb. So we shared a platter and enjoyed it very much.
We arrived late in Uyuni, but stayed at a lovely little hotel, unfortunately I cannot recall the name, but it was clean and charming. This was the start of our 3 day journey to the Salt Flats-Salar de Uyuni. We were asked to pack a small seperate bag for 2 nights, and we couldn´t bring our big packs. There are 13 of us in the group (from all over the world) and we hopped into one of the Jeeps with 3 others....one being our adorable Gap guide named Sollydad (Solly for short) a La Paz gal who is very passionate about her country.
The jeep bumped along some very rough terrain (can be very dangerous, as they say 13 people die each year from the Jeep tours, so it is important to choose the right company...again another reason to use GAP)...there was so much to look at...and it seemed every hour or so the scenery would change. We arrived at our first stop to see large piles of gleeming white salt, and saw the production line, of how it is ground down and then placed into bags for sale...some of the most pure salt around...of course we had to buy a bag!
Then we drove on...it felt like we were in the middle of nowhere....all your eyes could see is white salt and then the sky...Solly said if you drove stright it would go on for 100 kms. We arrived at an ¨Island¨...in the middle of nowhere called Isla de los Pescadores....it was a big rocky hill covered with cactus, a few lamas and an extrodinary view. It was called an Island, because all of the salt flats used to be part of a prehistoric saltlake, when it dried up, it left behind 12,000 sq km of salt!
We did a little hike to the top for photos and then went back down for a wonderful lunch. We had 2 cooks travelling with us for the 3 day tour, and it was wonderful because we ate very well. Lunch consised of potatoes, veggies, local cheese, tomatoes and LAMA steaks. It was awesome...never tried Lama before..it was a little on the tough side...but very tasty!
After lunch we continued along for an hour or so, and stopped in the middle of no where....all your eye could see was pure white salt. Here is where we took some awesome prospective photos....for example, a miniture Ivan standing in the palm of my hand.... a tiny me sitting on top of my hat....jumping on a banana, and being chased by a dinosaur....again, cant wait to post these photos..they look so fun!
After that we drove for a few hours more, I couldnt imagine where we would be sleeping, because there was nothing in site....but eventually, we came around mountain side to this old dumpy looking village...lamas everywhere, and we parked in front of what looked like an old abandon shit hole....I was more than unimpressed...Ivan could tell....he tried to make jokes.....I imagined the divorce papers. We grabbed our bags and ventured inside to a pleasant surprise....one of the most unique, creative and cool places I have ever been....EVERYTHING was mad of SALT!!!! The ground was pure white corse salt, the tables in the dining hall were huge slabs of gleaming salt..even the cute chandalieres were made of salt.....then we went to our bedrooms and our BEDs were big huge slabs of salt with a mattress on top...all of the walls were salt (we licked them to be sure)....we were in one of the famous Salt hotels....there we enjoyed a typical Bolivian Christmas dish of beef, creamy mashed potatoes with corn in a spicy sauce....it was wonderful!
Another lesson not to judge a book by its cover eh! It was most certainly an experience to remember..although one night was plenty enough to enjoy!
Death Road, Bolivia
Internet access has been a little tough over these past few days, so not much time to write. The second day we were in La Paz, Ivan convinced me to go mountain biking.....not JUST mountain biking, but biking down the ¨Most Dangerous Road in the World¨ !!!! Now, I am not much of a biker at all, in fact, I have only really ridden a bike 2 or 3 times in the last 15 years...and Ivan always makes fun of me because I am timid and go very slow. Not sure WTF got into me on that day...probably the fact that I didn´t want to spend the entire day in La Paz alone....and we talked to a tour agency and they assured me that was just the marketing name for the road, and it USED to be the most dangerous road in the world because they allowed traffic on it....which they no longer do (yeh right)....I can´t wait to post the photos.
The write up in the lonely planet says it best ¨Flanked by epic scenery and punctuated with waterfalls, this road plunges over 3000m in 80km. It has approx. 100 fatalities per year!!!¨ The road is very narrow, and has a sheer drop on one side...so not much room for passing vehicles..when they allowed traffic in the past and if the conditions were poor (such as the rainy season) cars could not pass each other so one would be forced off the side of the road...as you can quickly see with all of the crosses and shrines peppering the sides of the trail.
We started our day at 8am, picked up by the local company we had chosen called Mayhem. They are a newer company, but all of the companies do the same tours and offer the same experience, the only difference being the price (not a very good sales feature)! That said, when we were picked up in the little shit van, I was feeling a little nervous. Our little Bolivian tour guide Omar spoke English okay, and was pretty cute. They said breakfast was included, but I didn´t see how, because we immediately started our drive out of town.
They played some fun music, as we past hundreds of dogs, people and some gorgeous scenery. We stopped to let one of the guys out at some random place and carried on...stopped again and Omar jumped out and bought some bananas ...breakfast???? Finally after about an hour and a bit, we arrived at the starting point. We were outfitted with full gear, including pants, jackets, knee and elbow pads, and a huge helmet....not sure if I felt safer or worse at that point.
We start the ride....the best thing about this adventure is that it is mostly down hill...so barely any need to pedal...but you are basically riding your breaks the whole time....they cautioned not to squeeze the breaks too hard, as they are sensitive and will stop you immediately. So off we go...the view is spectacular...we are surrounded by mountains...the road is smooth and paved, there is so much to look at and admire as we ride for about 30mins...I am in awe and so grateful my husband convinced me to partake. SWOOOSH....a huge red truck passes me, and I swear it touched my jacket....I don´t waver, as I know I will fall....my heart leaps into my ear, my head pounds, and I try to catch my breath....I am still alive!
We stop FINALLY for breakfast...the aformentioned bananas, yoghurt and a chocolate bar...okay...guess you need the chocolate for the energy. Ivan comments on my near death experience..he said it looked like the truck was going right towards me...he was so proud I didn´t fall. I am feeling great, like a real Laura Croft bad ass...I am a hard core biker chick....then we see a man from another tour group walk by with blood pouring out of his face with a cloth and one of the guides assisting him....his group wasnt sure what happened...they turned the corner and found him lying still across the road...bleeding and not moving....OMG. Ivan quickly points out that the fellow was Asian, and sometimes not the best drivers....I sort of feel better.
We go a little further for about 10mins and stop for a snack....okay this is my kind of trip! hahaha. We slice up some fresh avacado, mistery meat and mayo on fresh buns and snack away....delish. But something has changed....the scenerey is still gorgeous...but the road is no longer paved...but a rough and tumble, rocky, bumpy path. Oh....NOW we are on DEATH road (as it is also called). The previous 40mins was just the road to get us there!
So off we go, I quickly fall into last place...but I am not ashamed....I don´t want to die...and it was so bumpy and rocky my boobs almost hit my chin...thank god for the industrial strength sports bra I bought from MEC!!! A must for active girls with big knockers!
The ride was still spectacular...we passed waterfalls, and flowers and stopped often to take photos...then as I was turning a corner a bright blue van was coming towards me....I wasn´t expecting oncoming traffic, so panicked, squeezed the breaks tight and kinda flipped over my handle bars, in a very ungraceful bail....if Ivan wasnt so worried, he probably would have laughed his ass off. Thank god for all of the gear, because I was just fine...unscathed...except for my hand (and my ego)....it turned a bit purple in one spot, but otherwise all was well.
We finished the ride and I was extremely proud of myself....all in one piece, mostly unharmed and some beautiful scenery along the way....we highly recommend this tour company, as we liked to support the locals, AND our protective gear was better than any of the others!
The ride ended in the tropical part of Boliva with big palm trees and hot sun...we were treated to a buffet lunch and some down time by a pool and then the long journey back to the hotel. Along the journey back, we all got lollypops, which seemed to finish everything off perfectly. I cant remember the last time I had a lollypop...it reminded me of going to the dentist....like a little reward. A fear busting experience I really did Enjoy!
The write up in the lonely planet says it best ¨Flanked by epic scenery and punctuated with waterfalls, this road plunges over 3000m in 80km. It has approx. 100 fatalities per year!!!¨ The road is very narrow, and has a sheer drop on one side...so not much room for passing vehicles..when they allowed traffic in the past and if the conditions were poor (such as the rainy season) cars could not pass each other so one would be forced off the side of the road...as you can quickly see with all of the crosses and shrines peppering the sides of the trail.
We started our day at 8am, picked up by the local company we had chosen called Mayhem. They are a newer company, but all of the companies do the same tours and offer the same experience, the only difference being the price (not a very good sales feature)! That said, when we were picked up in the little shit van, I was feeling a little nervous. Our little Bolivian tour guide Omar spoke English okay, and was pretty cute. They said breakfast was included, but I didn´t see how, because we immediately started our drive out of town.
They played some fun music, as we past hundreds of dogs, people and some gorgeous scenery. We stopped to let one of the guys out at some random place and carried on...stopped again and Omar jumped out and bought some bananas ...breakfast???? Finally after about an hour and a bit, we arrived at the starting point. We were outfitted with full gear, including pants, jackets, knee and elbow pads, and a huge helmet....not sure if I felt safer or worse at that point.
We start the ride....the best thing about this adventure is that it is mostly down hill...so barely any need to pedal...but you are basically riding your breaks the whole time....they cautioned not to squeeze the breaks too hard, as they are sensitive and will stop you immediately. So off we go...the view is spectacular...we are surrounded by mountains...the road is smooth and paved, there is so much to look at and admire as we ride for about 30mins...I am in awe and so grateful my husband convinced me to partake. SWOOOSH....a huge red truck passes me, and I swear it touched my jacket....I don´t waver, as I know I will fall....my heart leaps into my ear, my head pounds, and I try to catch my breath....I am still alive!
We stop FINALLY for breakfast...the aformentioned bananas, yoghurt and a chocolate bar...okay...guess you need the chocolate for the energy. Ivan comments on my near death experience..he said it looked like the truck was going right towards me...he was so proud I didn´t fall. I am feeling great, like a real Laura Croft bad ass...I am a hard core biker chick....then we see a man from another tour group walk by with blood pouring out of his face with a cloth and one of the guides assisting him....his group wasnt sure what happened...they turned the corner and found him lying still across the road...bleeding and not moving....OMG. Ivan quickly points out that the fellow was Asian, and sometimes not the best drivers....I sort of feel better.
We go a little further for about 10mins and stop for a snack....okay this is my kind of trip! hahaha. We slice up some fresh avacado, mistery meat and mayo on fresh buns and snack away....delish. But something has changed....the scenerey is still gorgeous...but the road is no longer paved...but a rough and tumble, rocky, bumpy path. Oh....NOW we are on DEATH road (as it is also called). The previous 40mins was just the road to get us there!
So off we go, I quickly fall into last place...but I am not ashamed....I don´t want to die...and it was so bumpy and rocky my boobs almost hit my chin...thank god for the industrial strength sports bra I bought from MEC!!! A must for active girls with big knockers!
The ride was still spectacular...we passed waterfalls, and flowers and stopped often to take photos...then as I was turning a corner a bright blue van was coming towards me....I wasn´t expecting oncoming traffic, so panicked, squeezed the breaks tight and kinda flipped over my handle bars, in a very ungraceful bail....if Ivan wasnt so worried, he probably would have laughed his ass off. Thank god for all of the gear, because I was just fine...unscathed...except for my hand (and my ego)....it turned a bit purple in one spot, but otherwise all was well.
We finished the ride and I was extremely proud of myself....all in one piece, mostly unharmed and some beautiful scenery along the way....we highly recommend this tour company, as we liked to support the locals, AND our protective gear was better than any of the others!
The ride ended in the tropical part of Boliva with big palm trees and hot sun...we were treated to a buffet lunch and some down time by a pool and then the long journey back to the hotel. Along the journey back, we all got lollypops, which seemed to finish everything off perfectly. I cant remember the last time I had a lollypop...it reminded me of going to the dentist....like a little reward. A fear busting experience I really did Enjoy!
Wednesday, December 15, 2010
La Paz, Bolivia
Wow! is all I can say. We arrrived in La Paz Bolivia yesterday, late afternoon after many many hours of flying. We flew LAN air which was fabulous. Lots of leg room, reclining seats, yummy food a huge selection of movies and video games. They also serve wine with the meals (yes for free)...however, we did not indulge simply because we had heard of the extreme altitude change from sea level to 1200ft above. The recommendations from our bible (lonely planet) were not to drink, because the air is so thin, that people can easily get altitude sickness. Most people take a gradual approach, before heading to La Paz...but nope...not us....just fly straight there!
Almost immediately after stepping off the plane I could feel my heart speed up. The airport was small and quite adorable. We gathered our luggage and hopped into a taxi...English is hard to come by here! The taxi ride was beautiful, as we drove along the highway, situated on a ridge overlooking the huge capital city of La Paz. I can´t even describe it, as I have never seen anything quite like it....almost like a giant collosium, this city has sunk into the middle, with sharp drops all around. All of the homes and buildings are redish brown and jammed closely together.
Driving in La Paz is nothing short of psycho...the highway was a gentle introduction, as we drove along a truck in front of us lost part of his load of toilet paper..... packages and packages flew off the back of the truck and onto the highway, causing the cars to swerve, honk and slow down. Our taxi driver was kind enough to actually stop for the poor man who had to run across the highway to gather up his shit tickets.
Once we got into the city my brain went nutz. Cars and busses, trucks, bikes and humans all fighting for realestate. Horns and honks become the municipal music, with zero disregard for your fellow driver. Anything and everything goes....we almost crashed about 12 times on the short drive to our hotel. But the traffic is so disorganized, no one is moving that fast.
We arrived at our pleasant little 3 star hotel called Las Brisas. Certainly not the Ritz, but charming and quaint enough for us. We felt safe, and the rooms were clean...private bathrooms with a hot shower....works for me. Now I knew this wasn´t going to be a typical Heather trip of ¨cocktails and heals¨ so I was fully prepared for the accomidation style. I was NOT however, prepared for the culture shock.
It is our second day here and we are still feeling the affects of the altitude. We read that we were supposed to take some sort of drugs a few weeks before to help our systems adjust....but I am proud to say we took zero precautions and both feel pretty good. We have noticed that we are a little lightheaded, especially when walking up hills and stairs...poor fat people...how the heck do they survive with pounding hearts and lack of breath...now I know what it feels like!
I feel like I might have whiplash after this trip, as there is SOOOOO much to look at. Everywhere you look there is a gorgeous photo opportunity. The big ladies with their long black braids, wearing colorful skirts and shawls, with their brightly colored sacks over their shoulders. Each one wearing (what Ivan and I call ) a bolero hat....They are a treasure to look at. There are markets everywhere....they sell everything you can think of, from light bulbs and toilets to mangos and lama featuses (the most interesting, yet sick, I would say).
We ate dinner at a restaurant called 100% Natural, last night and the food was pretty good. Huge portions...Ivan and I split a platter of German style sausage, mustardy cabbage, and steamed veggies all for a whopping $6! Food is cheap here....not the greatest you have ever had...but plentyful and cheap. We had a very typical Bolivian lunch today, in this random hole in the wall called Lanza (recommended by Lonely Planet). It was so fun as we had NO idea how or what to order...but we were happy just being with the locals. They started with a little salad, then followed with a huge bowl of noodle soup that was quite tasty, then the main course was rice with a fried chicken cutlet. The kitchen was open so you could see the whole family busy at work...even the little 5 year old girl who was helping prepare the meals...so cute.
We had a long day of walking, and now we are going to buy a few snaks and things for our trip to the Salt Flats on Friday. And of course we are going to scope out somewhere yummy for dinner. Hope you all are well...we miss you lots!
Enjoy!
Almost immediately after stepping off the plane I could feel my heart speed up. The airport was small and quite adorable. We gathered our luggage and hopped into a taxi...English is hard to come by here! The taxi ride was beautiful, as we drove along the highway, situated on a ridge overlooking the huge capital city of La Paz. I can´t even describe it, as I have never seen anything quite like it....almost like a giant collosium, this city has sunk into the middle, with sharp drops all around. All of the homes and buildings are redish brown and jammed closely together.
Driving in La Paz is nothing short of psycho...the highway was a gentle introduction, as we drove along a truck in front of us lost part of his load of toilet paper..... packages and packages flew off the back of the truck and onto the highway, causing the cars to swerve, honk and slow down. Our taxi driver was kind enough to actually stop for the poor man who had to run across the highway to gather up his shit tickets.
Once we got into the city my brain went nutz. Cars and busses, trucks, bikes and humans all fighting for realestate. Horns and honks become the municipal music, with zero disregard for your fellow driver. Anything and everything goes....we almost crashed about 12 times on the short drive to our hotel. But the traffic is so disorganized, no one is moving that fast.
We arrived at our pleasant little 3 star hotel called Las Brisas. Certainly not the Ritz, but charming and quaint enough for us. We felt safe, and the rooms were clean...private bathrooms with a hot shower....works for me. Now I knew this wasn´t going to be a typical Heather trip of ¨cocktails and heals¨ so I was fully prepared for the accomidation style. I was NOT however, prepared for the culture shock.
It is our second day here and we are still feeling the affects of the altitude. We read that we were supposed to take some sort of drugs a few weeks before to help our systems adjust....but I am proud to say we took zero precautions and both feel pretty good. We have noticed that we are a little lightheaded, especially when walking up hills and stairs...poor fat people...how the heck do they survive with pounding hearts and lack of breath...now I know what it feels like!
I feel like I might have whiplash after this trip, as there is SOOOOO much to look at. Everywhere you look there is a gorgeous photo opportunity. The big ladies with their long black braids, wearing colorful skirts and shawls, with their brightly colored sacks over their shoulders. Each one wearing (what Ivan and I call ) a bolero hat....They are a treasure to look at. There are markets everywhere....they sell everything you can think of, from light bulbs and toilets to mangos and lama featuses (the most interesting, yet sick, I would say).
We ate dinner at a restaurant called 100% Natural, last night and the food was pretty good. Huge portions...Ivan and I split a platter of German style sausage, mustardy cabbage, and steamed veggies all for a whopping $6! Food is cheap here....not the greatest you have ever had...but plentyful and cheap. We had a very typical Bolivian lunch today, in this random hole in the wall called Lanza (recommended by Lonely Planet). It was so fun as we had NO idea how or what to order...but we were happy just being with the locals. They started with a little salad, then followed with a huge bowl of noodle soup that was quite tasty, then the main course was rice with a fried chicken cutlet. The kitchen was open so you could see the whole family busy at work...even the little 5 year old girl who was helping prepare the meals...so cute.
We had a long day of walking, and now we are going to buy a few snaks and things for our trip to the Salt Flats on Friday. And of course we are going to scope out somewhere yummy for dinner. Hope you all are well...we miss you lots!
Enjoy!
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