Wednesday, December 22, 2010

Death Road, Bolivia

Internet access has been a little tough over these past few days, so not much time to write. The second day we were in La Paz, Ivan convinced me to go mountain biking.....not JUST mountain biking, but biking down the ¨Most Dangerous Road in the World¨ !!!! Now, I am not much of a biker at all, in fact, I have only really ridden a bike 2 or 3 times in the last 15 years...and Ivan always makes fun of me because I am timid and go very slow. Not sure WTF got into me on that day...probably the fact that I didn´t want to spend the entire day in La Paz alone....and we talked to a tour agency and they assured me that was just the marketing name for the road, and it USED to be the most dangerous road in the world because they allowed traffic on it....which they no longer do (yeh right)....I can´t wait to post the photos.

The write up in the lonely planet says it best ¨Flanked by epic scenery and punctuated with waterfalls, this road plunges over 3000m in 80km. It has approx. 100 fatalities per year!!!¨ The road is very narrow, and has a sheer drop on one side...so not much room for passing vehicles..when they allowed traffic in the past and if the conditions were poor (such as the rainy season) cars could not pass each other so one would be forced off the side of the road...as you can quickly see with all of the crosses and shrines peppering the sides of the trail.

We started our day at 8am, picked up by the local company we had chosen called Mayhem. They are a newer company, but all of the companies do the same tours and offer the same experience, the only difference being the price (not a very good sales feature)! That said, when we were picked up in the little shit van, I was feeling a little nervous. Our little Bolivian tour guide Omar spoke English okay, and was pretty cute. They said breakfast was included, but I didn´t see how, because we immediately started our drive out of town.

They played some fun music, as we past hundreds of dogs, people and some gorgeous scenery. We stopped to let one of the guys out at some random place and carried on...stopped again and Omar jumped out and bought some bananas ...breakfast???? Finally after about an hour and a bit, we arrived at the starting point. We were outfitted with full gear, including pants, jackets, knee and elbow pads, and a huge helmet....not sure if I felt safer or worse at that point.

We start the ride....the best thing about this adventure is that it is mostly down hill...so barely any need to pedal...but you are basically riding your breaks the whole time....they cautioned not to squeeze the breaks too hard, as they are sensitive and will stop you immediately. So off we go...the view is spectacular...we are surrounded by mountains...the road is smooth and paved, there is so much to look at and admire as we ride for about 30mins...I am in awe and so grateful my husband convinced me to partake. SWOOOSH....a huge red truck passes me, and I swear it touched my jacket....I don´t waver, as I know I will fall....my heart leaps into my ear, my head pounds, and I try to catch my breath....I am still alive!

We stop FINALLY for breakfast...the aformentioned bananas, yoghurt and a chocolate bar...okay...guess you need the chocolate for the energy. Ivan comments on my near death experience..he said it looked like the truck was going right towards me...he was so proud I didn´t fall. I am feeling great, like a real Laura Croft bad ass...I am a hard core biker chick....then we see a man from another tour group walk by with blood pouring out of his face with a cloth and one of the guides assisting him....his group wasnt sure what happened...they turned the corner and found him lying still across the road...bleeding and not moving....OMG. Ivan quickly points out that the fellow was Asian, and sometimes not the best drivers....I sort of feel better.

We go a little further for about 10mins and stop for a snack....okay this is my kind of trip! hahaha. We slice up some fresh avacado, mistery meat and mayo on fresh buns and snack away....delish. But something has changed....the scenerey is still gorgeous...but the road is no longer paved...but a rough and tumble, rocky, bumpy path. Oh....NOW we are on DEATH road (as it is also called). The previous 40mins was just the road to get us there!

So off we go, I quickly fall into last place...but I am not ashamed....I don´t want to die...and it was so bumpy and rocky my boobs almost hit my chin...thank god for the industrial strength sports bra I bought from MEC!!! A must for active girls with big knockers!

The ride was still spectacular...we passed waterfalls, and flowers and stopped often to take photos...then as I was turning a corner a bright blue van was coming towards me....I wasn´t expecting oncoming traffic, so panicked, squeezed the breaks tight and kinda flipped over my handle bars, in a very ungraceful bail....if Ivan wasnt so worried, he probably would have laughed his ass off. Thank god for all of the gear, because I was just fine...unscathed...except for my hand (and my ego)....it turned a bit purple in one spot, but otherwise all was well.

We finished the ride and I was extremely proud of myself....all in one piece, mostly unharmed and some beautiful scenery along the way....we highly recommend this tour company, as we liked to support the locals, AND our protective gear was better than any of the others!

The ride ended in the tropical part of Boliva with big palm trees and hot sun...we were treated to a buffet lunch and some down time by a pool and then the long journey back to the hotel. Along the journey back, we all got lollypops, which seemed to finish everything off perfectly. I cant remember the last time I had a lollypop...it reminded me of going to the dentist....like a little reward. A fear busting experience I really did Enjoy!

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