Sucre, Bolivia

I am about a week behind in my blog entries, as we are currently in Arequipa Peru...but I must go back and tell you about my favorite city in Bolivia called Sucre! I loved it because all of the buildings were awashed with white, making the city look much cleaner than the others we had seen. It was a quaint town and had a vibrant energy. We arrived later in the afternoon to our palace called the Hotel Independencia, which was gorgeous compared to the last few places we had stayed...I was happy once again...Ivan was in the good books. By normal standards the rooms would have been considered pretty crappy...but the lobby was beautiful and the breakfast just gorgeous...fresh pressed juices daily!

That night we went to a restaurant called Joyride, which was okay..you can tell its a popular touristy type place...but they can´t make a Gin martini worth a damn....Aryn if you are reading this...I look forward to enjoying one of your homemade martinis when I return!!!

The highlight of the trip so far for me was day number 2 in Sucre. We enjoyed a leasurily breakfast, and then joined the group for a city tour with our guide Solly. But it wasn´t just ANY city tour, it was like an eating tour!!! Solly took us to one of the most beautiful markets in the centre of town....everything was vibrant and gorgeous....fruits and veggies I had never seen before. She would grab some of the local fruits and give them to us to enjoy. My head was spinning there were so many things to look at. The meat section was a little gross as everything just sits out all day....chickens with their heads dangling, ready to be chopped off, cow tongue and noses, whole pig heads...I preferred the fruits and veggie section myself! Solly took us to her favorite smoothie station, where we all ordered our favorite combinations. I sipped on a spectacular strawberry and mango smoothie which was silky and fresh.

We strolled, and gazed at the local crafts and down through the European type park, and onto the BEST place ever for yet another Bolivian delight called Saltenas. We went to a well known cafe called Saltenas de Pollo Caldo Santa Clara, where the local nuns hand make these little pillows of love. Basically the Saltenas look like a pizza pop (for lack of a better term) but the pastry is tender and gorgeous, and slightly sweet and the filling consists of tender chicken and minced vegetables....the beef empanadas were also a delight...we went back the next day for more!

After our little snack we carried on to a local chocolate shop for some amazing Expresso....like hot chocolate, but with very little milk....thick, creamy chocolate, served in esspresso cups that was pure indulgence!

The group parted ways after the gourmet town tour and Ivan and I joined the other couple from Australia for COOKING LESSONS!!!!!!! I was so excited, and never would have thought of it, but the Aussie gal Ashley is a foodie just like moi, and she said she always asks wherever she travels if there are cooking schools..and lucky for me, she had asked and the four of us were to partake that evening!!! Not sure the boys were really THAT keen, but we needed a minimum of 4 people so they were pretty much obligated by way of the good husband code.

We went to a place called the Amsterdam Cafe, which is run by a wonderful lady named Linda. She came to Bolivia to help the poor children and has given up her life to do just that...all of the profits from the restaurant go directly to feeding the poor...and they cook for over 150 kiddies each day! She was to interpret for us, as her Chef Navidad (who was born on Christmas) was 110% spanish and the most adorable women we had ever seen. She was as tall as she was wide, and had a smile that just made you want to hug her.

The two ladies lead us back through the market to purchase the groceries needed for our meal. We were going to make a traditional Bolivian Christmas meal (sorry, cant remember the name). Linda also bought some passion fruits (which I had never tasted fresh before) and we all walked back to the little cafe. There we began peeling potatoes, shucking peas, slicing tomatoes and preparing all of the gorgeous veggies as we sipped on fresh passion fruit juice....it was blissful.

After that we all piled into the little kitchen in the back....I have NO idea how anything gets done in there, it was soooo small. The restaurant began to get busy, so then came the chaos...along with some local and delicious red wine. Ashley washed the chickens down as Chris helped stir the veggies over a stove with flames dancing about. Ivan drank wine and took photos as I scrambled to try and make up some sort of recipe....Linda wasn´t really translating anything and little Navidad was just adding a dash of this, a squeeze of that and a lot of this every which way....none of us could keep track...then we would all switch roles....it was so much fun!!!! We got pleasantly drunk and let the meal simmer as we awaited the rest of the group who were going to join us for dinner!

The meal we cooked (in the loosest sence of the term) was AMAZING....I will certainly do my best to recreate it upon my return. We ate and drank more and watched the little local band rock out on the windpipes....it was a perfect Bolivian day!

The final day in Sucre was also very special because it was Christmas Eve. Ivan went rock climbing, and I went shopping with Solly for the day. We were doing a secret Santa that night, upon Ivans suggestion, since we would be missing our usual annual Cermak Christmas party. Then that afternoon we all went out to the BIG market, where everyone threw in a bunch of $$ and we bought treats, toys and clothing for the kids at the local Orphanage. Solly, who should be considered a Saint herself, does this on every trip she makes to Sucre...and so asked if anyone wanted to join her....and of course we all did. We all hopped into cabs with our gifts and got to spend about an hour in one of the most clean and beautiful Orphanages I could imagine. It was still a bit sad to see these wee ones who had been left on doorsteps, or in the streets without a proper mommy and daddy...but there was comfort in knowing they were well cared for. One little guy kept taking Ivans hat off and bonking him on the head....I am sure Ivan deserved it for something..hahaha.

That night we all went to a French restaurant...I cant remember the name and it wasn´t worth going to...overpriced and average food...they nailed the presentation, but that was about all. But we had a nice time exchanging our gifts and Ivan and I sipped bubbly in celebration of our holidays abroad. If you ever go to Bolivia...you must go to Sucre and Enjoy!